MyHuntingForum.com
Hunting by Game/Technique => Bowhunting => Topic started by: CAPTJJ on Feb 28, 2012, 08:12:44 PM
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Decided last fall that I was going to start shooting recurves again, been thinking about it for a few years. Spent this winter getting together the gear I need, and a lot of time watching eBay auctions. I picked up some new Martin recurves from 40-50 lbs to hunt with; found some good deals around christmas waiting for the right auctions to bid.
I waited the longest(after sending a couple damaged ones back) to find a nice one piece recurve that has a light draw and longer length to start out with and work on good form. Ended up with a really nice Bear Tartar target recurve, 66" long, 28# @ 28"(should be 30lbs for my DL). They made these from 1968-72, this one is a '68 according to the serial number; has a copper Bear medallion. Bow is the same age as me, it's in better shape.;D Need to get a string and fletch up some arrows and I'll be shooting it soon, good year for an early Spring.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/w203/lgsalmon/100_1526.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/w203/lgsalmon/100_1522.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/w203/lgsalmon/100_1523.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/w203/lgsalmon/100_1525.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/w203/lgsalmon/100_1528.jpg)
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NICE!
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thats what im talkin about!!! nice!!
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nice I have a bow like that, but no string...and it is heavier to pull, idk if I can even string it because it has been unstrung for some time and I would like to hunt with it...
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Here's my old bow, haven't shot it in over 25 years. I found out(saw a similar one up for auction) that this one was made in Danbury, CT in the 60s by Clad Owens owner of the United States Archery Co; 62", 43#@28". Unfortunately it has a slightly twisted limb, probably can be fixed but for now it is a wall hanger, the wood is beautiful.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/w203/lgsalmon/100_1530.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/w203/lgsalmon/100_1531.jpg)
Need to take some pics of the new ones.
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The "new" bow looks like it's in great shape for the age and a sharp looking bow too. I have a Black Hawk Avenger 48@28 I got a while back very cheap off ebay. Not a valuable bow, but it's in good shape. I've been wanting to start shooting it but didn't have anywhere close to get started. I finally got a place to shoot it during archery season. A guy working at the bow shop has an open range around the corner from my house.
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not to many people shoot them any more
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Nice JJ!! Hope to see the trophy shots this fall!! Traditional equipment is even better these days with the arrow improvements...but it is still in the abilities of the shooter...good luck and great looking bows!!
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As I was cleaning out some stuff at my parents house I came across a bow I remember playing with a long, long time... Its still in great shape..Its a Shakespare..... I will have to get some pictures later.... My question is after I get a string for it can I use my compound carbon arrows on it???
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Carbons are the only thing I ever used with mine, I have killed deer with it too. I just had to make sure the fletchings were feathers.........
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That would depend on the spine of the arrows....most recurve arrows are a little under spined for the weight of the pull. To allow the arrow to flex around the bow at release. Most carbons are a higher spine than what your poundage calls for....So if you shoot 50lbs on your compound, you would need a recurve a little higher in weight.....Most of the lower spined carbons work decent for traditional bows, as they have such a large weight range they will work for....Most likely at full length....uncut....with changes made to the weight of the tip used.....
I started with an old Shakespear fiber glass.....50lbs at 28"....thing was a bear to shoot.... ;D ;D
I would most likely order a half dozen or dozen Easton aluminum arrows for it....use the chart at their web site....and experiment from there...............geeees guys...now I'm starting to get the traditional bug.....gosh dang it..... 8) 8)
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The term is archer's paradox, the arrow needs to flex around the riser on recurves and longbows; recurves can be easier to shoot because the riser is cut out closer to the center. Arrows need to be tuned to the bow so the have the right amount of flex to shoot accurately. You can add/remove tip weight, cut the arrow, move the rest out or lastly change shafts to accomplish this.
Here's a good video showing paradox, notice how the arrow is spinning but still flexes side to side(arrows don't "fly like darts): http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aNI9BG87qcI (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aNI9BG87qcI)
Nice JJ!! Hope to see the trophy shots this fall!! Traditional equipment is even better these days with the arrow improvements...but it is still in the abilities of the shooter...good luck and great looking bows!!
Not sure I'll be ready to hunt with a recurve this Fall, we'll see; for now I want to have fun shooting them. ;)
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Here is the bow... I googled it and all that came up was a few for sale..
(http://i415.photobucket.com/albums/pp237/raquettedacker/101_1837.jpg)
(http://i415.photobucket.com/albums/pp237/raquettedacker/101_1838.jpg)
(http://i415.photobucket.com/albums/pp237/raquettedacker/101_1840.jpg)
(http://i415.photobucket.com/albums/pp237/raquettedacker/101_1841.jpg)
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I was thinking if I hunt with one this fall, I might make my own arrows.... with wood, feathers, and so on...anyone have experience? Ive made a few but not for hunting
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I have one around here somewhere too.......wonder where :-\
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Anyone looking for a good book on traditional archery I highly recommend: Shooting the Stickbow, by Anthony Camera. It's about an inch thick, 400 pages covering everything you need to know and more; a bargain at $20.
http://www.shootingthestickbow.com/index.html (http://www.shootingthestickbow.com/index.html)
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Bout time there is something worth reading around here. ;)
jj thats a nice lookin bow. Iv never heard of the tartar model. Sure was a lot of different models pumped out in that era.
iv been bitten bad by the trad bug.
Been shooting every day all winter. Yesterday I scored 18 issues of traditional bowhunter mag off clist for nine Bux.
Today I stopped into a guys house up the road a mile or so to fix a delaminating tip on my Damon howatt. he is a bowyer himself and Found out that he does work for fedora bows. he started showing me pix of beautiful Bux he shot w his own bows and invited me over to shoot and get setup good n proper next week. I cant wait, the guy is incredibly knowledgeable. i wish I would have stopped there a year ago.
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Just found a pic of the Bear bow I just got on the website for the book(he misspelled Tartar ;)):
(http://www.shootingthestickbow.com/web_images/W_bear.jpg)
Been waiting for ramrod to show up. Sounds like you found the right person to talk to, that's cool. Which Howatt do you have?
I like his bows(you probably know that).
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Nice stick and strings guys.
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I think my old one should work, just need a string for it, not sure on length, pretty strong bow, haha hopefully I can pull it back, should do the job for deer. going to make some wood arrows with 250gr on the front ;D
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Rule of thumb for string length is 4" shorter than bow length for recurve and 3" for longbow. Then twist to recommended braceheight and fine tune from there.
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Had a Super Kodiak for a while.....Thing shot fast and very accurate....Sold it for money to buy target archery equipment....a used Golden Eagle target bow and a case full of sights and other stuff....have since sold all the accessories to people who I have worked on their bows....Gave the Golden Eagle to my nephew....He used it one year and never picked it up again....Getting down to just my hunting bow and some old odds and ends....Well and a couple stick bows....a Martin...35lb and a Bear 25lb...Got those at garage sales for my kids and my niece...she wanted to learn to shoot and hunt....that never happened.... Might have to keep an eye out for something....
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jj i have the bandito. it is the one that was given to me which infected me w this disease. i plan on hunting w a k-mag 50#. you prob remember the pics of it. green w rattler skins on the limbs.
so you havnt feathered and flung your heritage arrows yet?
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The Bandito's are nice, 58" like the Mamba I think. Yes I remember the Kodiak w/ the skins, like it; looking for one if the price is right, no hurry.
Waiting on some white feathers and a string, now we have snow. I'm hoping the Heritage 150s will work with the new bow at around 30# if I add enough tip weight and keep them full length, otherwise I'll pick up some cheap 1816 aluminums for it.
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yea it is 58". finding out that the longer bows shoot alot smoother and really magnifies the increased finger pinch on the 52" kmag
tuning arrows to bow/archer is quite the science in itself. there are so many variables to take into account, shaft selection, based on weight and spine, minute length adjustments, foc, etc.... i dont even know where a good place to start would be. thankfully the local pro is willing and seemingly excited to help set me up with a working and properly tuned system of bow and arrow.
i have just been winging feather fletched 2117's w 125 grain tips and compensating for any minor flight imperfections. perfecting form seems to be the thing i need to focus on now so i can check that off the list of potential causes of erratic arrow flight.
who ever thinks that going traditional makes things simpler and easier they are mistaken. i had no idea it was this complicated. but seem to enjoy the process and the rewards will b so much sweeter.
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I thikn the one I have is an old bear, its long, and strong...bout to get some killin' on (reference to "I like big butts") going to use woodsman arrows 150gr with 100gr brass inserts, thought about making everything but found a place that makes nice arrows from wood, prob just order them 83$/doz not bad I guess... prob get all white feathers
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Found out that shooting with heavy tips isn't a good idea with a light bow, so I wiil save the Heritage 150s to hunt with, they will be a good match at 40-45 lbs. I looked at some XX75s in 1816 size that will be the right spine at 30 lbs left full length. After looking at the price for the components I ended up being the only bidder for a 1/2 dozen fletched, DIPPED AND CRESTED arrows for about the same cost; now I don't have to do the work and have really nice looking arrows to shoot, easy choice ;). New string is on the way along with some nice weather, should be shooting later this week.
(http://i.ebayimg.com/t/New-Custom-made-dipped-and-crested-traditional-archery-easton-1816-arrows-/00/s/OTYwWDEyODA=/$(KGrHqJ,!rEE88gWlgGtBPT(tL(7Eg~~60_58.JPG)
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yea it is 58". finding out that the longer bows shoot alot smoother and really magnifies the increased finger pinch on the 52" kmag
tuning arrows to bow/archer is quite the science in itself. there are so many variables to take into account, shaft selection, based on weight and spine, minute length adjustments, foc, etc.... i dont even know where a good place to start would be. thankfully the local pro is willing and seemingly excited to help set me up with a working and properly tuned system of bow and arrow.
i have just been winging feather fletched 2117's w 125 grain tips and compensating for any minor flight imperfections. perfecting form seems to be the thing i need to focus on now so i can check that off the list of potential causes of erratic arrow flight.
who ever thinks that going traditional makes things simpler and easier they are mistaken. i had no idea it was this complicated. but seem to enjoy the process and the rewards will b so much sweeter.
I think the only thing simpler is the equipment, a bow, string and arrow is all you need; of course that makes everything more difficult when it comes to shooting properly. Check out that book I mentioned, it covers everything.
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Nice looking meat missiles. ;D
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Too light for meat(hunting), those are for targets only.
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They look like they would do just fine for squirrels and rabbits to hone your skills.
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Found this quote appropriate to archery:
(http://www.thoughtsow.com/wp-content/uploads/aristotle-success-small.jpg)
Have to send the arrows back, nocks aren't lined up right; looks like I'll be ordering shafts and making my own. Will have to stick with shooting the compounds for now to get ready for the turkeys.
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Guess I know what I am then.....LOL...
To bad about the arrows JJ....I'm sure your going to make nicer ones anyways... ;)
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make me some while youre at it! ;D
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Found out that 1716s should spine better, so I ordered some shafts; aluminums are much cheaper than carbons and it's easier to get the right spine. Also found another 1968 Bear recurve in really good shape, 34# @ 28", 66"; should be here next week, this bow should be good with the 1816s.
make me some while youre at it! ;D
They're easy to fletch up, just need a jig and some glue, started doing it myself because it was too far to drive for arrow repairs. I use the Jo-Jan fletcher and Fletch-tite Platinum glue. Will be my first time using real feathers. For now I order shafts cut or use them full length; looking at an arrow saw for @ $100 to tune, will need this to tune carbon arrows for my hunting recurves.
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I've got an old arrow saw at my fathers. I don't see why you couldn't just mount a cheap rotary tool to a board, would be easy to make an adjustable knock socket. the biggest factor is just having the right cutting wheel and cutting straight.
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I was thinking of doing that Steve, till I found the $100 arrow saw, they can get pricey.
Ordered shafts, inserts and nocks on Friday; they sent the first two, nocks are on backorder. Called today to see if they had a different color nock in the size I need, 1/4"; they are sending a different color, more waiting. ;D
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Picked up another really nice 1968 Bear recurve, this one is a Polar, 34#@28", 66"; it's in great shape, should shoot good. I like the zebrawood in the riser. 8)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/w203/lgsalmon/100_1544.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/w203/lgsalmon/100_1545.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/w203/lgsalmon/100_1548.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/w203/lgsalmon/100_1546.jpg)
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nice looking bow... ill have to grab mine from camp and measure for a string... plan on making some homemade wood arrows with glue on tips, prob just get one of the small fletching jigs...then practice practice practice...the plan is to have one of my friends video me shooting a deer with it this fall, should have a grreat feeling after that!
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Great looking bow JJ!! Been poking around for one since this thread started. (and shot my old bear) Only 45lbs at 28"...but had fun shooting it for a bit in the back yard.... ;D ;D
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Finally remembered to pick up some fletching glue and made a few arrows this morning; not big on the color of the shafts but the price is right; Easton XX75 Blues. Time to got to work, might shoot a little this evening. 8)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/w203/lgsalmon/100_1588.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/w203/lgsalmon/Mobile%20Uploads/1334417529.jpg)
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Started shooting and I'm enjoying the simple life. The old bow shoots pretty good and I'm picking it back up a little quicker than I thought I would. Started at 7 yds and was grouping Ok but most shots were high. After a while I went back to 10 yds and shot a nice group a little high and left. Trying to shoot instinctive and just look at where I want to hit; I'll be sticking at 10 yds for a while and doing some blank bale shooting for form. Find myself wanting to shoot these bows a lot more than the compunds; finding that the advice to start out light(30 lbs) really helps, I can shoot it all day.
Hoping to work my way up and be able to hunt turkeys with a recurve next year. 8)
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Day 3 of shooting and I'm getting the hang of it, first 2 shots this morning and first shot this afternoon were right in the bullseye at 10 yds; otherwise I tend to shoot high a lot but they arre grouping and sometimes touching . It's different without sights, but somehow when you concentrate the arrow ends up where you are looking. A lot more fun and challenging.
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That one there going to take some time to get tuned up being long bow with no sites ; I'm used to my compound
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anyone know anything about bamboo arrows? seems like they would be super strong...
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got my wood arrows coming, going to have chartruese and flo pink feathers haha, was thinking of staining all but the last 1/3 of arrow in a colonial walnut, will be using snuffer heads out of my custom recurve, cant wait to get it all put together and shoot
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Day 5 of shooting and I'm getting the hang of it, the light bow is great to (re)learn how to shoot a recurve correctly. Finding the center of the target more often, and seem to shoot my best when I first start; you can't think about aiming, I usually start hitting high/left if I do.
First round this morning(only 10 yds ;)):
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/w203/lgsalmon/100_1602.jpg)
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nice!
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Things are starting to click now. Figured out one reason I keep hitting high, lowering my bow arm instead of bending at the waist; just like shooting out of a treestand, not dropping the bow arm to aim will cause high hits/misses. ;)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/w203/lgsalmon/Mobile%20Uploads/1334868361.jpg)
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Good groups!! I'm sure you will be good out to 30 by fall.....Now to get a turkey with a bow first.... ;)
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Nice shooting popping them in there with no sites ;) ;)
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Nice shooting.
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Doing well JJ. 8)
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Looks real good, you'll be more than ready by fall at this rate. Any deer with the recurve will be an incredible accomplishment, even more so in the ADK's.
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wow nice shooting JJ.
Luke
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Thanks guys, but I must admit most groups aren't nearly that good, it's nice to know the potential is there though. My goal is to hunt with a recurve next year, not a lot of practice time for me during the summer.
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Doing mighty nicely seems to me you will sure be ready with shooting like that ;) ;) ;) :)
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Hadn't shot in a few weeks but was suprised to see that I could group pretty good and I wasn't shooting high any more. I find I can hit the bullseye more often if I concentrate on a spot and don't aim for too long; it's pretty cool when the arrow ends up where you want it without sights.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/w203/lgsalmon/Mobile%20Uploads/1336606195.jpg)
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Your ridin the bike now Capt.!!
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nice job! getting my bow string soon, arrows are all set!
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8) Looking great for no sights :D :D
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lookin good jj. it is quite the feeling when you can make an arrow go where you want it too using just your hand eye connection. i call them mind bullets :)
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Mind bullets?? ??? ;D How about mind arrows. ;)
Been trying to get back in the groove of shooting every day now that turkey season is over. Still shooting at 10 yds, can get a good group but need to concentrate on each shot. When I start scattering arrows I move close to the target to work on form without needing to think about aiming; seems to be working.
Best group yet:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/w203/lgsalmon/Mobile%20Uploads/1338417451.jpg)
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nice group jj
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Very nice!!!
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Nice shooting...
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Looking very good
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nice group. i fell into the nice weathe no shooting groove again..... if only it snowed all year. :o
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Seems like it's either raining or I have something else to do, trying to force myself to get a couple rounds in at least every other day. Heading out now.
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Getting more consistent, with the occasional flier(or two) of course, you have to do everything right(exactly the same) every time. Today I changed my grip to a little firmer and I am wrapping my fingers around the bow now, this made a noticable improvement. I was using an open hand, like I do with compounds; which wasn't consistent enough with the recurve I guess. The most important thing I have noticed to be able to hit where I want is to make sure I am shooting with back tension, holding at full draw with the back muscles is the best way to relax the hand for a clean release. This also makes sure you hold at least a couple seconds before releasing and aren't snap shooting. Finding that my practice session go longer before I start scattering arrows toouch and need to take a break. Having fun mostly. ;D
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i too found out that a more firm grip on the bow created more consistency. i printed a form picture that i hung up in the basement so i look at it every time i shoot.
flung 3 arrows last night at a turkey head cutout i put on the target. first two were right in the neck under the waddles an inch apart. the 3rd was a few inches to the left. guess i retained a little of what i gained this winter.
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The mind can retain a lot, with more practice that 3rd shot would have been on. ;) Sometimes taking a break seems to help, as long as you don't take 6 months off.
Still getting some fliers after firming up my grip, so I changed my anchor a little and saw another improvement. I have been using my index finger in the corner of my mouth, and then extending my thumb(still bent) to anchor on the corner of my chin. I kept the index finger the same, but now keep my bent thumb lined up with my hand and anchor against my cheekbone. This helped in two ways: first off I noticed that that forced my elbow up for better alignment with the arrow, and secondly, I can get a much cleaner release because my hand is more relaxed without the thumb extended. Before I think I was plucking the string on occasion.
I was going to start with a glove but decided on a tab, I chose the Bateman cordovan leather tab after some research; it has a rubber finger separator for shooting split finger. The leather is pretty slick and strong, doesn't get a groove worn into it.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/w203/lgsalmon/Mobile%20Uploads/1339113504.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/w203/lgsalmon/Mobile%20Uploads/1339113095.jpg)
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I think I figured out the last issue, holding the bow arm steady until the arrow hits. I was definitely flailing my arm leading to stray arrows; started thinking to act like a "statue" until after well after I hit the target. Big difference, it really became much easier to hit where I wanted. Hoping I can start moving back in distance soon.
The center of my target is wearing out, but these 4 arrows are touching in the bullseye.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/w203/lgsalmon/Mobile%20Uploads/1339183188.jpg)
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Nice group. Looks like that target lasted you a while so far, and it's still stopping them. Just need an empty feed type bag to put it in.
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Really nice looking groups wherein that Bullseye out keep up the awesome shooting ;) :) :)
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nice chootin!
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Same style finger tab I used for a lot of years. So much more consistent than a glove. But I found out to have two...one in your pack....they are easier to lose than a glove....
Forearm position has been the hardest form flaw for most to over come. It does need to be straight in line with the arrow....A release will lessen the effect of a small flaw, but never totally correct it. I'm sure you'll find your groups with your compound a lot better after all this type of shooting....Good job!!!
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Will definitely be getting a back up or two; nice thing about a tab you can slip on a thin pair of camo gloves for hunting. I was thinking the same thing about the compound being easier with all this form work. Decided to take a couple days off from shooting, too many loud bikes anyway. ;)
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Now that I have my form settled I am going to try blank bail shooting for a while to ingrain everything; pretty boring but should help in the long run.
Pulled out the 40 lb @ 28" bow I plan on starting off with for hunting and strung it; should be around 42-43 lbs at my DL. It's a Martin X-200, 60" AMO; a new 2009 model that was made in 2010, they changed the wood that year and I found this at a steal of a price watching the auctions. I really like the riser, laminated birch that was dyed green. I think it will be short enough for the blind for turkeys, the black limbs are good for the dark blind. I was thinking of carbon arrows but decided to try aluminum again, easier to find the right spine with more choices and cheaper, too. Going with the XX75 Camo Hunter in 1916, should be good with 100-125 grain tips, may need to cut a little off; will use 5" feathers for broadheads. Plan to try shooting off the shelf with a simple calfskin rest; may try a stick on like the Bear Weather Rest.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/w203/lgsalmon/100_1672.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/w203/lgsalmon/100_1683.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/w203/lgsalmon/100_1675.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/w203/lgsalmon/100_1677.jpg)
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Sharp looking bow I like the green a lot.
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Gorgeous bow!
Shot my first deer with a PSE coyote takedown at 55#. Buddy broke a limb on it and I picked up my compound and havn't looked back, too bad such a feeling of accomplishment. I should get back into it. Good luck to you this season! Man that thing is pretty!
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Sweet lookink Bow JJ....
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Sharp looking bow I like the green a lot.
Took the words out of my mouth, Steve. ;)
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Nothing prettier than the wood on a riser!! Good find!!
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Got shafts in and fletched up a few arrows for the green bow, 1916 Easton Camo Hunters w/ 5" RW feathers with a good helical. Have some white nocks coming to match and some green and black feathers to make some more for turkeys. Holding off till I shoot a little and try to arrow tune, may need to cut them down some, especially if I want to use heavier points.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/w203/lgsalmon/100_1731.jpg)
Still shooting blank bail and form is becoming consistent and feels natural; I'll be shooting at 10 yds and working my way back soon. If I can get consistent out to 20 yds with the light bow, I'll start shooting the green one; maybe I can get good enough to try for a deer at close range this fall, definitely by next spring for turks.
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You sure do have patience and commitment to this. 8) 8)
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Arrows came out nice. Wouldn't be surprised if you felt comfortable by fall if you keep at it.
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got mine already to practice some...first time out to test my compound this year...hope I can do it.
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8) Sure is a nice looking recurve , how see shot with the new arrows
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got mine already to practice some...first time out to test my compound this year...hope I can do it.
Take it easy don't over do it , Work your way back into it :) :)
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got mine already to practice some...first time out to test my compound this year...hope I can do it.
That's great Doreen, keep practicing regularly; as along as you can hit a paper plate at 20 yds consistently you should be good for hunting if you keep the shots close.
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After 3 weeks of nothing but close shooting I decided it was time to start working my way back, starting at 8 yds. All the form work really helped, now just need to keep shooting a lot and get the aiming part ingrained. I shot back as far as 17 yds and was able to put some in the bull from there; shooting further back seemed to help by being able to see the flight of the arrow and how a bad release affects flight. I also tried canting the bow some and shot pretty well, will need to practice that for hunting when clearance is needed. Might try a little more this afternoon once my shooting spot gets in the shade.
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I have decided I suck at this but I am trying so I guess that is worth something. I wont go out until I am able and capable of taking the animal with surity......right now I am not so sure...lol I can hit the target at 15 yards but it is not consistant...HELP
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Doreen, the key to hitting where you aim consistently is to shoot consistently, do everything the same every time; the proper term is form. It's the same for a compound or recurve, which is why I spent the last 3 weeks shooting from only 3 feet from the target with either my eyes closed or looking at the arrow; just working on my form so I could do it naturally. After shooting a lot today it has really made a difference.
The best thing you could do would be to find someone to show you the basics in person, either a lesson from a coach, or find an archery range where you could watch other shooters and probably find a person willing to help you out. Otherwise there's lots of websites and videos to learn from , and remember that there is no "right way" with archery, just remeber to be consistent and do what feels right and is most comfortable.
Here's a couple good ones that cover the basics:
http://www.pvoltmer.com/websites/tutorial%20site/index.html#4 (http://www.pvoltmer.com/websites/tutorial%20site/index.html#4)
http://www.archerygold.com/shooting-compound.html (http://www.archerygold.com/shooting-compound.html)
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Nice shooting CaptJJ. I agree completely with the consistency.
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Been shooting a lot, much more fun than the compound. Grouping good close when I relax and concentarte on aiming; tried some shots again at 18 yds and seemed to do better than in close, probably concentrating more. After I finished I looked at the green bow and the fletched arrows and decided to crimp on a nock and try it. The 1916 arrows were under spined a bit with a 100 grain point, better with an 85, could at least shoot fletched arrows with them( they didnt fly great). Have to get a tubing cutter and start cutting them down 1/2" and trying them; have about 2" to work with or will need to go up to 2016s, think I'll be alright.
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Shot a little more this evening mostly from 8-12 yds to work on getting more consistent in close. Decided to head back to 18 yds and was able to lay the arrows in there pretty good the first try, just looking where I want to hit for aiming; shooting 4 fletched and 2 bare shafts:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/w203/lgsalmon/Mobile%20Uploads/imagejpeg_2-3.jpg)
Stepped back up to 10 yds and put the first 2 arrows high(typical after shooting for farther out), then centered the rest:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/w203/lgsalmon/Mobile%20Uploads/imagejpeg_2-4.jpg)
I think I shoot better farther out because I relax more and just let the shot happen; I've noticed the same thing shooting compounds. Really starting to get back tension and "expanding" at the shoot for a smooth release and automatic follow though; the key is to use the back muscles(squeeze the shoulder blades together) but relax everything else. If you do it right your release hand will travel backwards after release, it happen's automatically.
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Doreen, the key to hitting where you aim consistently is to shoot consistently, do everything the same every time; the proper term is form. It's the same for a compound or recurve, which is why I spent the last 3 weeks shooting from only 3 feet from the target with either my eyes closed or looking at the arrow; just working on my form so I could do it naturally. After shooting a lot today it has really made a difference.
The best thing you could do would be to find someone to show you the basics in person, either a lesson from a coach, or find an archery range where you could watch other shooters and probably find a person willing to help you out. Otherwise there's lots of websites and videos to learn from , and remember that there is no "right way" with archery, just remeber to be consistent and do what feels right and is most comfortable.
Here's a couple good ones that cover the basics:
http://www.pvoltmer.com/websites/tutorial%20site/index.html#4 (http://www.pvoltmer.com/websites/tutorial%20site/index.html#4)
http://www.archerygold.com/shooting-compound.html (http://www.archerygold.com/shooting-compound.html)
thanks so much for the info....dont know how I missed this but I did.....I am signing up with a guy from Cazenovia to help me out as I am stupid with this. He gave me some exercises to do to build the strength up in my arm from surgery damage and I go to him next week. Told me to stop practicing because I was not doing something right and was hurting my arm worse. I also checked out these sites and see I was looking pretty stupid out there. not at all like it was when I was doing this as a kid.......anyways thanks a bunch for the info.....and I like your website....might have to call on you next time I go to lake george.........
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Well now that Summer is over I have more free time again to practice, managed to shoot the recurve just enough the last couple of months to retain everything. Things are starting to get more "automatic" now; no thinking about it, just shoot, which is really the key, along with just concentrating on where I want to hit. Shooting various distances out to 20 yds.
I finally bought an arrow saw, want to get the carbon arrows tuned for the green bow(40lbs), maybe tomorrow. Full length they are weak, so I will start cutting off 1/4" until I get a bare shaft to fly straight; will use 125 grain point to start with the standard inserts. Had a couple custom strings made with FF string, less stretch and a bit faster than the stock one.
Started shooting the compound again, all the recurve shooting definitely helps, especially with using back tension and following through. Took a few shots through paper, looked good till I tried a bare shaft, was slightly nock left. Moved rest out a hair and had bullet holes; made a sight adjustment after a few shots, then tried some broadheads. Will still need to adjust the sight a little for the longer pins. 22yds:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/w203/lgsalmon/Mobile%20Uploads/imagejpeg_2-25.jpg)
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This chipmunk has been teasing me for weeks, usually runs out from the green shed I use as a backstop; I get a shot at him every once in a while and hadn't connected in about a dozen tries, lots of close ones.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/w203/lgsalmon/Mobile%20Uploads/E41A0468_zps2d5bdff6.jpg)
He kept trying his luck yesterday, I missed from 8 and 10 yds, then around 15. I was shooting at 20 yds, had one arrow left and he ran out, I skimmed his back, he chirped and ran, at 15 yds. I kept shooting and he finally came by as it was getting dark; he was headed for his den under the pines and stopped on the stone wall. I crouched and stared at him from 8yds, drew the bow and released without thinking about hitting the wall and ruining my arrow; hit him good and he was knocked sideways a couple feet, the arrow went straight into the pine needles. Couldn't find him, think he ran down one of his holes; arrow was wet with a speck of blood. Think I gut shot him. ;D
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/w203/lgsalmon/Mobile%20Uploads/E41A0469_zps4e130216.jpg)
Haven't praticed much with the compound but I think I'll be alright, 5th season with this bow. Took some shots at forty yds for the first time this year with broadheads today, figure I should be good to 30 while hunting, don't really care to shoot animals that far anyway, I like them close. 8)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/w203/lgsalmon/Mobile%20Uploads/E41A0476_zpsb7c8a561.jpg)
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I picked up another book, this one about shooting instictively with an emphasis on the psychological side more so than the mechanics of shooting. It was a quick read, I think it will really help my shooting and have already reread a few parts.
(http://ia600809.us.archive.org/zipview.php?zip=/5/items/olcovers169/olcovers169-L.zip&file=1694011-L.jpg)
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Very neat JJ....Your shooting extremely well with both!
Fun to work on the local rodent population....Squirrels are rampant here....have a little corn feeder out back in the yard for them..... :D Will try to send a little silent death their way in the next week...(they chewed Ty's cork handle off his fly rod this summer).... >:(
Never was really good at instinctive shooting....good enough to hit the target...just not a spot...
One of the best I ever watched was a pro shooter out of Johns shop, his name was Jeff something or other...LOL....He shot a bare Oneida Eagle, at 70 lbs....out to 70 yards on the 3D course @ Hudson Falls he would kick all our butts....You could hear that Eagle snap across the course....but he knew it inside and out and was deadly....Think he went on to shoot for Mathews....
Went to shooting one arrow this week....from different positions...and only out to hunting distance...(30 yds max) Tried one last night at 7:15....from my chair....found out that these old eyes just don't see the pin well at dusk these days....still center punched it....but will be looking for a brighter pin to put in my scope the next few days....
Sure hope we get to see you with a giant Ohio buck again this year, and maybe one with the recurve....Glad you had a busy fun summer!
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good shooting JJ. I had made up some wood arrows for the recurve and put a 4 feather fletch on them...they were horrible, changed it to 3 and am shooting well
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How did the recovery go on the gut-shot 'munk go? Yotes, fox, neighbor's cat get it?
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Saw the red squirrel that's been teasing me for a couple weeks run by and grabbed the recurve to go after him; he knows when I'm after him now. Didn't want to pull the target out, but spied a big shroom in the lawn. Hadn't shot in several days, first shot:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/w203/lgsalmon/Mobile%20Uploads/E41A0488.jpg)
Knocked the top off:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/w203/lgsalmon/Mobile%20Uploads/E41A0491.jpg)
Reds and chipmunks were pretty active, missed a few shots; kept hitting rocks under the grass and remembered I had a couple judo points. Took a couple practice shots, then a chipmunk came out from the bushes. First try with the judo on "game", about 8 yds ;D:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/w203/lgsalmon/Mobile%20Uploads/E41A0492.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/w203/lgsalmon/Mobile%20Uploads/E41A0493.jpg)
Red is next. ;)
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Thats awesome! Some good looking bows too.
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Great shooting Capt JJ.
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Short blood trail.....gotta love it!!!
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Nice head shot - that'll save your butt once the chipmunk zombie apocalypse arrives ;)
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Nice shootin CaptJJ ;) gotta love those tips. they do an awful job on a critter.
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wow now that is some good shooting......great shot.
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Nice head shot - that'll save your butt once the chipmunk zombie apocalypse arrives ;)
HAHAHA agreed
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Well the squirrels seem to know when I'm after them, when they see the bow in my hands. Not seeing many in the woods hunting, but they are all around my house: reds, greys and even one big black one that I want.
This one came up to check me out in a tree this morning:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/w203/lgsalmon/Mobile%20Uploads/E41A0555.jpg)
Shooting mostly from 15 to 20yds now, out to 25 sometimes. Need to get the arrows tuned to the green bow still, have the arrow saw set up, just need to find time(tough during hunting season); maybe tomorrow afternoon before the weather hits. Want to get this done so I can practice all winter for turkeys in the Spring. Looking for somewhere indoors to shoot this winter, one friend has a couple large basements in his motel that will work nice for 15-20 yds, one is a shop he doesn't use much in winter; it's close, too. Making sure I practice regularly with the compound through the season, some years I get lazy/over-confident. I had practiced the afternoon I shot my bear this year and I'm glad I did that day, hit right where I aimed .
Here's a nice group at 20yds, usually get one flier but kept them all in there this time:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/w203/lgsalmon/Mobile%20Uploads/E41A0539.jpg)
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awesome shooting and awesome pic of squirrel......go get em capt
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Nice shooting JJ... We have a black one hanging around here.... In Michigan all I saw were black ones..
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Getting right back into it; shot a little here and there over the winter but hadn't shot much in two months, stuck with the compounds because of my turkey trip.
Got the itch and did some shooting Monday, was shooting pretty good with the light bow and decided to try the green 40# X-200. Stilll needed to tune the arrows for this bow, but it shot pretty good with any arrow, with some fishtailing; more importantly the weight was no problem and form was good. I started cutting down the Heritage 150s and had taken off 2.5", they were getting better, still showing weak, along with everything else except the really stiff arrows I use with my compounds.
Something else was wrong, had to be hitting the shelf; so I started raising the nock point and flight got better, now I am about 3/4" high and can get a bare shaft 150 pretty straight with perfect form(good thing I stopped cutting them). If anything the nock will come down a little and I can still cut up to an inch off the arrow to stiffen it. For now I'm going to fletch up a few arrows and cut them to match the bare shaft, then I can tune some more; might get to hunt turkeys with it at close range this Spring. 8)
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Getting right back into it; shot a little here and there over the winter but hadn't shot much in two months, stuck with the compounds because of my turkey trip.
Got the itch and did some shooting Monday, was shooting pretty good with the light bow and decided to try the green 40# X-200. Stilll needed to tune the arrows for this bow, but it shot pretty good with any arrow, with some fishtailing; more importantly the weight was no problem and form was good. I started cutting down the Heritage 150s and had taken off 2.5", they were getting better, still showing weak, along with everything else except the really stiff arrows I use with my compounds.
Something else was wrong, had to be hitting the shelf; so I started raising the nock point and flight got better, now I am about 3/4" high and can get a bare shaft 150 pretty straight with perfect form(good thing I stopped cutting them). If anything the nock will come down a little and I can still cut up to an inch off the arrow to stiffen it. For now I'm going to fletch up a few arrows and cut them to match the bare shaft, then I can tune some more; might get to hunt turkeys with it at close range this Spring. 8)
sounds fun, im looking for a good deal on a kodiak magnum or some other short recurve
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Fletched up three arrows, need to see how they shoot when I get a chance; then I can work on the nock point and final tuning:
(http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w203/lgsalmon/Mobile%20Uploads/P82A0561_zpsc9bfbc31.jpg)
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Really like the way this bow shoots, point and release and the arrow goes right there; and its so light: 1 3/4 lbs. Looks pretty close to tune, just going to keep shooting it for now. The heavier weight is definitely easier to shoot and get a clean release, with good form, of course.
The 30" arrows weigh in at 430 grains, and thump the target a lot more than the lighter bow/arrows; should be plenty for a turkey. That is with a 100 grain point, giving plenty of broadhead options. Hoping the same arrows will tune for the 45# bow that I want to hunt with in the Fall, may need to cut them a little.
First group from 10 yds:
(http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w203/lgsalmon/Mobile%20Uploads/P82A0563_zpsc84fdab5.jpg)
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Way better than I could ever do with the old Re curve , Give me my Compound nice shooting ;D ;D ;D
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Looking good JJ..... Now shoot a turkey with it.... Oh that's right you all ready shot a bunch........ ;D Do it with the stick and string and save the head for the beetles... Never did one of those... ;D
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Really liking this 40# bow, just have to make sure take my time and aim, tendency is to rush with the heavier weight to hold. Switched tips out to 125 grain from 100 for a little more FOC, I like the way they hit; arrows now weigh around 455 grains. Here's a nice group with the bare shaft added in:
(http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w203/lgsalmon/Mobile%20Uploads/P82A0568_zpse1f1a370.jpg)
Took the 45# Martin Hunter out of the plastic and strung it up, this bow looks good, wood is shedua with a strip of bubinga down the middle, highlights and limbs are hard maple. These bows are supposed to be pretty fast; brace height is lower and and its 2" longer than the green bow at 62"AMO. Got a great deal on this bow as a leftover on eBay. Need a FF string and then I can see what it likes for arrows, not in any hurry.
(http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w203/lgsalmon/Mobile%20Uploads/P82A0570_zps2d8e7cd4.jpg)
(http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w203/lgsalmon/Mobile%20Uploads/P82A0574_zps482b7701.jpg)
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Some good stuff!! Should be some feathers flying, both on the arrow and the turk soon!!
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Added some Bowjax to the string, not very 'traditional", but they really quiet the bow down; just need to add some calf hair strips where the string hits the limbs. Have some 125 grain Magnus Buzzcuts coming to see how they shoot/tune, should be fine; may need nock adjustment, then I will tie in a nock and take off the brass one. Shooting some arrows once or twice a day, tring not to overdo it; makes no sense to keep shooting with bad form, spraying arrows all over.
(http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w203/lgsalmon/Mobile%20Uploads/P82A0580_zps508f3de3.jpg)
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had my 42# Amarco bow out the other day, felt good to be shooting, need to do it more often to be perfect, even got my little guy to shoot (although he in noo way could pull it back far but at 3' he hit the target haha) still looking for a good short hunting bow
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The little things make all the difference when shooting a stick bow. I have been at a point where I wasn't improving much, could get good groups when I concentate, but it was a lot of work and then I still get poor releases and spry arrows around. The real key to a clean, consistent release is back tension, especially when you go up in weight. I watched this video on the rotational draw, which forces you to use the right back muscles, then went out and shot. What a difference in arrow flight rigth away, then my groups really tightened up when I got used to it and could think about aiming more. One thing that really helped was letting the string line up the bow as you drw, instead of forcing it with the bow hand; can't be relaxed when you do that. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6c8_-96h6BY (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6c8_-96h6BY)
I'll be watching more videos, didn't think a coach could help that much with out being there; videos show so much more than a book can explain.
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The little things make all the difference when shooting a stick bow. I have been at a point where I wasn't improving much, could get good groups when I concentate, but it was a lot of work and then I still get poor releases and spry arrows around. The real key to a clean, consistent release is back tension, especially when you go up in weight. I watched this video on the rotational draw, which forces you to use the right back muscles, then went out and shot. What a difference in arrow flight rigth away, then my groups really tightened up when I got used to it and could think about aiming more. One thing that really helped was letting the string line up the bow as you drw, instead of forcing it with the bow hand; can't be relaxed when you do that. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6c8_-96h6BY (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6c8_-96h6BY)
I'll be watching more videos, didn't think a coach could help that much with out being there; videos show so much more than a book can explain.
thanks for the info!
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Sounds like they can be a very sensitive bow to shoot
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Getting used to the rotational draw and groups are showing the difference, getting tighter. Not sure if the improvement is from ensuring back muscles are being used, or from less torque on the bow by letting the string bring the bow onto the target instead of the bow hand; probably a combination of both.
Fletched up some more arrows, with green feathers this time for turkeys, they see white too well.
(http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w203/lgsalmon/Mobile%20Uploads/P82A0632_zps24623614.jpg)
Gonna try shooting from the blind tomorrow, want to see how much room I have for the longer bow; might need to cant it.
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Love the color are they carbon's....
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I like the green, too; hope they bring me some Irish luck. ;D
Yes, they are carbons, that's what I prefer to hunt with, don't like the metallic clink of aluminums. These are the arrows I wanted to shoot, but a few people said they would be too stiff, other said try them. When the .600 spine aluminums were too weak after I cut them as much as I could, these .500 spine carbons made sense; they are really flying good now. I had 1/2 dozen that I bought on ebay for a great price, they have a nice dark "wood" grain; the newer ones are a bit lighter but shoot just as good. ;)
Started shooting the bare shafts a bit more the last couple days and decided the nock still needs to come down. Brought it down 1/16" or so a couple times, now I'm at 3/8" hight; bare shaft doesn't kick up when it hits the target anymore. Took the brass nock off and tied one above and below. Will have to see how the broadheads like it next, hopefully I won't have to re-tie.
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The helical fletch help improve accuracy with the recurve ?
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The helical fletch help improve accuracy with the recurve ?
helped with mine ;D
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I fletch my arrows for my compound with a left helic
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I think helical fletching is a good idea, especially with fixed blade broadheads and shooting off the shelf. I'm also using 5" feathers, could probably get away with 4" but I'm not shooting far enough for it to matter and I'd rather have a little more forgiveness.
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I think helical fletching is a good idea, especially with fixed blade broadheads and shooting off the shelf. I'm also using 5" feathers, could probably get away with 4" but I'm not shooting far enough for it to matter and I'd rather have a little more forgiveness.
i tried to do a 4 feather fletch 4" on my wood arrows with heavy fixed blades, were slow and inaccurate, I refletched with 3 and whammo they were like a dart, its amazing how little adjustments mean the world with trad gear
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Looks like I'm good to hunt turkeys with the recurve out of the blind at close range, 8-10 yds, with the small vitals. 8) Want to use the blind to be able to draw with them so close; had to fix a broken rod, so I decided to try shooting from it after the repair. Have plenty of clearance with the 60" bow shooting from my knees like I prefer when on the ground; no need to cant the bow like I thought I might(hadn't practiced that very much). Got a nice group, then tried shooting with the thin black gloves I use from the blind, no difference.
(http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w203/lgsalmon/Mobile%20Uploads/P82A0649_zps35f87a71.jpg)
The only thing left to test now was broadhead flight and I wasn't waiting any longer; screwed two of the new 2 blade Buzzcuts on. All I did to "tune" was heat up the inserts and rotate the broadheads so the were in line with the string(vertical). The flew great and hit where I wanted, penetration into the target was pretty good, should have no problem killing a turkey or deer with this set up. 8)
(http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w203/lgsalmon/Mobile%20Uploads/P82A0650_zps083d9e82.jpg)
Need to make up a few more green fletched arrows now and keep practicing.
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Looks real good ; For no sights no nothing ;D ;D
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thats awesome! way to keep it up
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Got the new tab trimmed up nice and it doesn't take much to break the cordovan leather in. Been practicing alot with one arrow lately to simulate hunting, but I still shoot groups. Was shooting from 10 yds yesterday, released my last arrow and heard that sound and saw pieces of nock flying, my first recurve robin hood:
(http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w203/lgsalmon/P82A0756_zpse4344f14.jpg)
(http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w203/lgsalmon/P82A0761_zpsf169fdfd.jpg)
Not sure I'll try for a turkey again this year, their vitals are so small. I'll definitely be ready for deer this Fall. 8)
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:o :o That ah ( BOY ) Jeff :) There is one heck of an accomplishment awesome job ;D ;D
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Congrats on the hood capt
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NICE !!!
Peddler 8) 8) 8)
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Shot pretty good today, may have to try for a turkey again. Shooting one arrow at a time after I get a little sloppy with my groups is working good, concentration is really important and the single arrow helps to go slow: draw anchor, hold/aim, then release.
Forgot to post this, took it a while ago.
(http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w203/lgsalmon/P82A0661_zps1ded6ad0.jpg)
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Trying to shoot as much as I can, every day if possible, find it tough to stop when I get into it, unlike my compounds. Some days things really click, yesterday was like that. I was only shooting one arrow at a time, seem to shoot better that way. I have been mostly shooting close range from my knees as practise for turkeys, but yesterday I started at 15 and went back to a little over 20 yards. Shooting from a distance is really the best way to get better, it forces you to use good form and get a clean release; can also see the arrow in flight better. I tried from about 10 yds after and it was so easy in comparison. 8)
Want to start shooting my 45 lb Hunter but I need a good string. The guy that made the last ones is taking time off, so I need to find someone else; too bad, his are perfect.
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Shot today, first time in a week with the rain. ??? Shot pretty good, used my broadhead target, its black and I noticed a little erratic flight with the white fletchings. So I tried a bareshaft, hadn't in quite a while, since I first tuned. I was getting a consistent slight nock left flight, every shot was the same. Which means my form is consistent now that I am used to the bow(could also be my draw length got a little longer as I've heard can happen at a heavier weight when you get used to it), but the arrows are still slightly weak, need to cut them a little more. I can take off at least another inch, shouldn't take that much, maybe 1/4 or 1/2". Should make the bow more forgiving and stop some of the left/right misses. Back to the arrow saw.
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My Aunt is moving and has lots of stuff, my Dad mentioned my Uncle's(passed away 25 yrs ago) archery gear was in the basement., he said there were 2 bows. I hoped for a nice old recurve I could shoot but it turned out to be a much older longbow and an old fiberglass recurve kids target bow, 30#, but in great shape, even has the label.
The longbow is pretty stout, heavy limbs, the tips are either horn or maybe antler/bone.
(http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w203/lgsalmon/100_2296_zps42dd30b5.jpg)
(http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w203/lgsalmon/100_2303_zps4e425eab.jpg)
(http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w203/lgsalmon/100_2304_zps61f57edf.jpg)
(http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w203/lgsalmon/100_2305_zpsfb902ff5.jpg)
Also got his leather quiver, with several wooden arrows, two arm guards, a finger glove, extra tips and nocks. My Aunt mentioned that he used to bowfish for carp with it before they met, found some fish points, too. My guess is the stuff is from the 50s or 40s even.
(http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w203/lgsalmon/100_2308_zpsab4ce087.jpg)
(http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w203/lgsalmon/100_2310_zps2c22dcf1.jpg)
(http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w203/lgsalmon/100_2306_zps297a558b.jpg)
(http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w203/lgsalmon/100_2307_zps04e07fec.jpg)
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Shot today, first time in a week with the rain. ??? Shot pretty good, used my broadhead target, its black and I noticed a little erratic flight with the white fletchings. So I tried a bareshaft, hadn't in quite a while, since I first tuned. I was getting a consistent slight nock left flight, every shot was the same. Which means my form is consistent now that I am used to the bow(could also be my draw length got a little longer as I've heard can happen at a heavier weight when you get used to it), but the arrows are still slightly weak, need to cut them a little more. I can take off at least another inch, shouldn't take that much, maybe 1/4 or 1/2". Should make the bow more forgiving and stop some of the left/right misses. Back to the arrow saw.
Still not much time to shoot with work and rain. Tried the bareshaft again today before cutting anything, same consistent nock left flight indicating a weak arrow. Tried dropping from a 125 grain tip to a 85, and the arrow flew straight, confirming a weak arrow. Also getting a higher nock than I want so the nock point needs to come down. Should shoot better once I get it tuned good; thought I had it before but I was still getting used to the heavier weight and shooting off the shelf.
Hope to try some cutting tomorrow.
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That is some cool old equipment..
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Got to cutting the arrows, what a difference a 1/2" makes. Started by taking 1/4" off, and the bareshaft was straighter, another 1/4" and it was flying straight into the target out to almost 20 yds. The nock is still a little high, took off the tied on nocks and put a brass one on so I can play with it a little; I'll wait a couple days and shoot it as is. I cut down a couple fletched shafts and they have more zip and fly like darts, makes my shooting look better, the left/right misses are pretty much gone. Still need to cut down another have dozen arrows: heat and pull the insert, cut then reinstall the insert. Its a pain but well worth it. 8)
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Boy o boy them old time pass me on's are something special & They don't make the new stuff like the old stuff , Good for you getting your fingers on that stuff ;D ;D
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What a difference having the arrows tuned good makes, definitely less left/right errors. I've been shooting the 45 lb bow I want to hunt with, the arrows tune pretty close form what I can tell so far, need to get used to the heavier weight and 1" shorter brace. I also plan on going to a low-stretch sting for a little more speed(and stability), which will probably make them weak.
Anyway, after shooting the heavier bow, the 40 lber seems much lighter and I can hold at full draw, which allows me to take my time and aim. My groups really tightened up and I now feel in control of the bow when I shoot.
(http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w203/lgsalmon/P82A0931_zps1312579f.jpg)
The best practice for hunting seems to be just one arrow at a time, concentrating on making that one good shot. With the feeling of being in control of the bow I can hit the center of the target regularly, still get some errant shots when something goes wrong and it doesn't take much to throw the shot off.
(http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w203/lgsalmon/P82A0943_zps3c3c7404.jpg)
Want to try some longer distance shooting with the tuned arrows now, lost my "range" till Fall, need to go to my friends yard down the road now. Can only get out to about 15 yds out side the house.
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Man you are getting deadly with that set up ;D ;D ;D Looking great ;)
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Trying to not go more than a couple days with out shooting, finally got a few shots in today. Getting to the point where I am fine tuning everything with my form, I can usually tell what I am doing wrong when I make a bad shot. Last week I found that my draw arm elbow was too high causing me to hit high, now drawing around and back in line with my shoulder. Today I was hitting high sometimes and scattering the arrows, seemed I wasn't getting a clean release. I have heard that you need to have the release hand relaxed, no tension other than what is needed to hold the string; muscle tension is minimized by using a "deep hook" with the string buried into the first joint of your 3 fingers.
My problem, which I finally noticed, was my thumb position, I was holding it inline with my index finger which required muscles. I started relaxing my thumb and now let it lie naturally alongside the index finger, as opposed to forcing it on top near the knuckle. I can now draw with my hand totally relaxed. Also, my anchor point is more solid because my thumb is now closer to my face, and my thumb knuckle now lines up under my cheek bone instead of alongside it. My anchor point is more consistent and I'm getting more consistent, smooth releases from one small change.
Need to get a couple good strings made for the 45 lb Hunter soon, really want to use that bow in the Fall, it hits hard. and I can hold it no problem now. I'll have to string up the 50 lb Hunter next; plan to set this one up with a heavy arrow for bigger game. Need to take some pics of this bow, the riser is cool with 3 different woods.
When I concentrate and aim I can hit the bull with the heavier bow, need more practice, then tuning for broadheads.
(http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w203/lgsalmon/P82A0951_zps65985729.jpg)
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Interesting form in your hand, having the string in your first joint goes against everything I was taught years ago when I started. Makes sense but it sounds like a smooth release would be difficult. Are you shooting three under?
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Nice shooting funny how little things make a world of difference keep up the great shooting ;D ;D
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Interesting form in your hand, having the string in your first joint goes against everything I was taught years ago when I started. Makes sense but it sounds like a smooth release would be difficult. Are you shooting three under?
Shooting split finger like I did as a kid, it seems natural and I like it for hunting. If I was more into target/3D three under would probably be better.
Burying the string into the first joint of the fingers is the key to a clean release with a bow without any let-off, it keeps the release hand as relaxed as possible.
(http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w203/lgsalmon/Mobile%20Uploads/P82A0962_zps25f45a0b.jpg)
(Looks like my thumb is touching the string but it is behind it about 3/4")
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Wasn't able to shoot for about a week around the fourth and I suddenly developed a pain in my left(bow) shoulder :-\ , so I took a break so I didn't aggravate it. Started shooting last week, still a little pain but shooting doesn't bother it. Started back with the 28# Bear; then moved up to the 40# green bow, for some reason I shoot this one the best, maybe because it is tuned better.
Yesterday my first group was really good, then things went downhill. I noticed I was drawing straight back and went back to the rotational draw and things got better right away, NEED to use back tension every time. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6c8_-96h6BY (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6c8_-96h6BY)
Decided to try the 45# Hunter with this draw and it worked good with the heavier weight, this bow is a lot faster than the 40#er and I really want to hunt with it this Fall. I contacted the guy that made my last strings and he said he is making a few now, send my order. He said his prices were higher than they should be on his website to discourage orders, sent me a nice refund through Paypal, I'm getting 2 custom low stretch strings for $20 each with shipping. 8) I'll keep shooting with the factory string, then set it up and tune it and add silencers and a tip protector, might have to cut the arrows a little if the new string is faster like it should be.
At this point I feel confident hunting with the 40# X-200, if I can get the 45#er shooting as good I will use that and the 40 will be a back up.
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You going to shoot traditional broad heads with it this fall?
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Yes, 2 blade Magnus, lifetime warranty and cheap price; plus the blades can be resharpened, have a KME broadhead sharpener coming along with a leather strop.
I decided on these with solid blades over the regular Magnus Stingers w/ vented blades:
(http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w203/lgsalmon/Mobile%20Uploads/P82A0627_zps468ffac8.jpg)
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I was just looking at all the medivel and traditional broad heads in the latest Lancaster catalog. Have to get some of these lol. http://www.lancasterarchery.com/medieval-rope-cutter-broadhead.html (http://www.lancasterarchery.com/medieval-rope-cutter-broadhead.html)
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Took a couple days off, today the shoulder felt good so I shot quite a bit with the 40#er. Some days the arrows just go right were I want, started off shooting 5 arrows at a time and got some nice groups.
(http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w203/lgsalmon/P82A1037_zpsffb26f9d.jpg)
When things started opening up I switched to one arrow to concentrate on every shot, like while hunting; when I focused this was the result:
(http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w203/lgsalmon/P82A1038_zps9eef223d.jpg)
After dinner I decided to try the 45#er and shot pretty good with it, really just want to keep shooting it regularly to get used to the heavier weight. Still waiting on the new strings so I can tune and add silencers. I ordered some special yarn to make my own strings "puffs", its musk ox wool(supposed to work best/the lightest) coming from Canada; for the price of two sets from an archery store, I will have enough to make a bunch of them.
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Dude you need a new target... ;) ;D
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Good shooting. That target sure doesn't owe you anything, but it's still stopping them.
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I was checking out replacement covers, should order one before it goes all the way through. The other side is still good. ???
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I was checking out replacement covers, should order one before it goes all the way through. The other side is still good. ??? You should see my broadhead target. ;D
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Been shooting only the 45# Hunter for several days now, one arrow, one shot at a time out to 15+ yds; muscles have caught up to the extra weight and I can shoot with good form for as long as I want without tiring. What it really comes down to is the mental aspect, focus and execution; the only thing you can think about is where you want to hit, the rest has to be automatic. When both come together I hit right where I want.
The new strings came in but the serving is too big, sent them back to be redone with .019 Halo; don't know why he used .024 this time, last strings were the same(12 stand) and the .019 fits the nocks good. I should be used to this bow by the time I get them back and ready to tune.
The hole in the target is getting bigger, guess I better order the new cover. ;)
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Forget to mention I found another 1968 Bear recurve to add to my collection of bows built the year I was born, a 44# Kodiak Hunter in really nice shape; will post pics when it gets here.
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Been working on my execution, or form, with the 45# bow the last couple days, blank bail shooting at close range with my eyes closed; no need to worry about aiming just think about doing everything right consistently. Gonna keep at it for at least a week or until the new strings come back. Probably a good idea because I went right from the 40#er to this bow without much form work to get used to it, already feeling much more comfortable with the bow. Its just boring, need to break it up and shoot several times a day if time allows. :-\
New target cover has been ordered. 8)
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Took a few shots from 12 yds or so today after some blank bail shooting. Working in my form with the heavier bow really worked, hitting right where I wanted with nice tight groups. I'll stick with it a few more days, then the new strings should be here so I can tune. Should be ready to go by hunting season, will limit myself to 15 yd shots or less.
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nice, I should really get out and start shooting again, would love to harvest one with the recurve, not to sure where I would go though...
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I've been thinking the same thing. Not sure I want to hunt from a treestand with a recurve yet, will probably still hunt or use one of the ground blinds I have made to start. Just built one near where a big buck was bedding last Fall, a good narrow spot he travels through; been lots of rubs there the last couple seasons, too thick for a treestand with the trees that are big enough. Then I have to decide about my Ohio hunt, if I can practice enough from an elevated position and feel confident I will try it there.
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Haven't had much time to shoot lately, mostly trying to get at least a little blank bale shooting in every other day and a little bit from 10-15 yds when I can. The strings came back in the mail with the thinner center serving, much better nock fit, just about perfect. Strung up the bow, brace is 7 5/8", had it at 7 1/4" with the factory string. What a difference shooting it, much quieter, and the bow seems easier to draw, might have something to do with the low stretch string. Doesn't look like I have to do much tuning, arrows were flying really straight, even bare shafts; need to get outside and see how the bare shaft does at longer distances. It was showing a little weak sometimes but I was too close to tell enough, arrows may need a little cutting. Nocks were a little tight with the string that came with the bow, so that might have something to do with the improvement in arrow flight.
The latest addition to my recurve collection is a really nice, clean Bear Kodiak Hunter made in 1968, 44# @ 28". Need to get a string for it so I can try shooting it, maybe I'll hunt with it at some point, would be cool to kill something with a bow as old as I am.
(http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w203/lgsalmon/Mobile%20Uploads/P82A1112_zpsca7107bf.jpg)
(http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w203/lgsalmon/Mobile%20Uploads/P82A1110_zps515dbc22.jpg)
(http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w203/lgsalmon/Mobile%20Uploads/P82A1111_zpscfe8f60e.jpg)
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Had some time to shoot some from 10-12 yds with the new string, really like how it shoots now, a bit faster and much quieter. Grouping good and hitting the other arrows several times(makes a clank), should be ready to hunt after I get it fine tuned, its pretty close now. The string settled in and the brace is now 7.5" so I have a little more to play with if needed for tuning. First I need to adjust nock height, then see how weak the arrows are; may not have to cut them, adding string silencers might be enough if they are just a little weak(looks that way).
(http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w203/lgsalmon/Mobile%20Uploads/P82A1118_zps73c8d48c.jpg)
Picked up another good book that I'm almost finished with, its pretty short. Archery, especially shooting instinctively, becomes more mental than physical once you learn good form. You need to be in the right frame of mind to make the shot happen consistently. The Mental Mechanics of Archery was recommended and should really help, like what I have read so far.
(http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/51NeOUJYPlL._BO2,204,203,200_PIsitb-sticker-arrow-click,TopRight,35,-76_AA300_SH20_OU01_.jpg)
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That Kodiak looks great ; Will make for a great addition to the family ; Yup I got to agree getting time for a new cover on the target ;D
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I really like the old Bear bows.
Have the new target cover, just need to swap it out, probably after Labor Day when things slow down. ;D
Shot the Hunter a bunch today out to 15 yds and shot the best I have with it yet, starting to feel confident about hunting with it. 8)
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Wow, that kodiak looks to be in mint cond! Great posts CAPT JJ! Looks like your groups are tight!
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Thanks Deadeyez, I check the auction listing when I can and finally found one that I wanted, its in great shape for being 45 years old.
Hoping to get the groups tighter, especially at longer distance by getting it tuned better, started it today. First I raised the nock point 1/8", wanted to make sure that arrow hadn't been kicking up from hitting the shelf, I think it was, the bow got quieter and the bare shafts were slightly nock high. I moved it up another 1/8" and it didn't change much, so I think it might need to be somewhere in the middle, but I left it for now. Shafts were also nock left(weak spine), so I cut off 1/4", it got better; cut off another and its really close. Still have to add the wool string silencers, added weight will help get it closer. Once I do that I'll shoot it for a few days then finish tuning, slightly weak and nock high is supposed to be good with a bare shaft, feathers will stiffen the arrow a little.
(http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w203/lgsalmon/Mobile%20Uploads/P82A1131_zpsd9217c06.jpg)
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Had some time to shoot today and I was shooting pretty good so I figured I should do more tuning. Added the string silencers and the little bit of weight on the string had the bare shafts pretty straight side to side, maybe a tiny bit weak, good there. Then I went to the nocking point, lowered it 1/8" and it got better, another 1/16" and the were flying pretty flat, just a touch nock high. Next I will try some broadheads and if they are flying well(they should) I will be all set; then I will take off the brass nock and tie them on, one above and one below so the arrow won't slide down when hunting.
The muskox wool(qiviut) silencers made a real difference, took away the string twang. I looked at them on one archery website and they are expensive, so I found a site that sells "qiviut" wool yarn to make my own. Stll not cheap, but for the price of 2 sets I have enough yarn to last me years. 8)
(http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w203/lgsalmon/P82A1135_zps29febadb.jpg)
The 45 lb Hunter is shooting like the 40 lb X-200 now that it is tuned; tuning makes the bow much more forgiving. Have another month to practice before the season opens, I should be ready by then.
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Decided my nock height was good so I tied on two nocks, one above and one below(so nocked arrow won't slide down while hunting). Turns out that switching from the brass nock to the lighter tied on nocks was enough to make the arrows a little weak. So I tried dropping down from 125 to 100 grain points and that had them flying nearly perfect. Not sure if I am going to stick with the 100 grains or try cutting another 1/4" off so I can stick with the 125s, since the broadheads I bought last Spring are 125s. With the 100s the bow is a little bit louder(still pretty quiet) but it shoots flatter. I am going to try shooting through paper with the fletched arrows before I decide.
Found a new way to tie on nocks that I like. I had been using dental floss but being thin it slips under the nock and changes the fit on the string. A really good instinctive shooter I have been PMing with on another forum gave me the link to this video, I tried it and it works great. The tied on nocks can be twisted up and down the string to adjust nock height, so I can stop using the brass nocks and won't have the problem of having to retune for spine anymore.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1YlYqDiJN8U (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1YlYqDiJN8U)
Tried some bare shafts after getting the nocks tied on right after a few tries, ended up robin hooding one of the shafts at 15 yds. Guess I better order some more, had planned on it anyway. ;D
(http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w203/lgsalmon/P82A1141_zps138859bc.jpg)
(http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w203/lgsalmon/P82A1142_zpsfa721421.jpg)
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Been shooting a lot at 20 yds and out to 25 the last couple days, really makes the 15 yd and closer shots easy. Feeling really confident to hunt with the recurve now, still have 3 weeks to practice. Now I need to start shooting from an elevated position so I can hunt from a treestand, don't think it will be an issue as long as I bend at then waist.
Tried the 100 grain NAP Nitrons(3 blade, 1 1/16" mini broadheads) that I like to hunt with from my compounds; too bad they discontinued them. They are flying real nice out to 20 yds, and based on the way they penetrate into the target I'm thinking they would work fine. I have some 100 grain Magnus Stinger Buzzcuts on order and plan on hunting with them this year.
(http://i.ebayimg.com/t/Magnus-Broadheads-Stinger-Buzz-Cut-100-Grain-2-Blade-3pk-/00/s/MjgxWDUwMA==/z/C94AAOxyjfZR7pHE/$(KGrHqN,!o0FHiwcFTZYBR7pHEP9bQ~~60_12.JPG)
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Things are really coming together now that I am shooting at longer distances, really the best way to get better because it magnifies your mistakes. I am really getting confident to hunt with my 45lb Hunter now. Here's a nice group at 20 yds:
(http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w203/lgsalmon/Mobile%20Uploads/P82A1156_zpsbe8be69d.jpg)
A couple pics of the bow, really like the looks of this bow:
(http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w203/lgsalmon/100_2325_zpsbad020f1.jpg)
(http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w203/lgsalmon/100_2323_zpsf75198ee.jpg)
Checked my brace height yesterday, it was getting a bit louder and bare shafts were showing a little too weak; the string has settled and lost about 1/16". Added 4 twists and its back to 7.5", that quieted it down, bare shafts flew great, my groups got better and most importantly the arrows were hitting the target harder; finding tune really matters with these bows now that I have my form down.
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looking good man, I found a nice little hiding spot to use my recurve this year hopefully get it done before all the other hunters get there
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Wow.. Great looking bow..
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Group looks tight. Hope to see a pic of you and a deer with the recurve this season. 8)
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Thanks all.
Just bought(won) another recurve on eBay. Was thinking of buying the same one new but this one is hardly used and the price was right. Its very similar to the Hunter, a 45# Martin Mamba, 58" AMO length as opposed to the 62" Hunter; same woods, bubinga and shedua but the pattern is reversed. Want to use it in the blind, mostly for turkeys. These bows are addictive, now I need to find or build a rack to hold them all. ;D
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I did it again, heard that familiar crack, shooting from 15 yds. ;D
(http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w203/lgsalmon/Mobile%20Uploads/P82A1158_zps4936470c.jpg)
(http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w203/lgsalmon/Mobile%20Uploads/P82A1160_zpsdb376abb.jpg)
Time to fletch up a few arrows; good thing I have another dozen on the way, be here tomorrow.
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Sweet bow and great shooting JJ. Shot my Bear a few times this summer. Can still hit the target at 20.....But no robin hoods in my future..... ::)
Will be a nice journal entry when you shoot one this fall with traditional. Culmination of a lot of hard work.
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Robin Hood!! ;)
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Thanks everybody.
Sweet bow and great shooting JJ. Shot my Bear a few times this summer. Can still hit the target at 20.....But no robin hoods in my future..... ::)
Will be a nice journal entry when you shoot one this fall with traditional. Culmination of a lot of hard work.
Nice to hear from you, keep shooting that recurve, its fun; I don't look at it as hard work, enjoying it a lot. ;D
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Got the Martin Mamba in the mail today, less than 48 hrs after the auction ended. Really like it, just like new, pretty much a mini version of the Hunter, grip is the same. Shot it a few times with the factory string and arrows I have tuned for the 2 other Martins I've been shooting. Was putting them where I aimed at 15 yds even though the bareshafts were a little off, one was weak , the other stiff. Gonna wait till I get some custom strings made, thinking about trying BCY 8190 instead of the D-97 based on the string builders recommendation. Should get a little more speed, which I'm hoping will allow me to use the same arrows as the Hunter which is a little faster; might need a heavier tip and/or higher brace height to make them work. This shorter bow will be nice in the blind, will have plenty of time to get it set up and tuned for turkey season next Spring.
(http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w203/lgsalmon/Mobile%20Uploads/P82A1161_zpsd5c51340.jpg)
(http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w203/lgsalmon/Mobile%20Uploads/P82A1162_zps8ddd33db.jpg)
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great looking bow, breaking mine out today I think, I am checking a cam that I plan to hunt opening morning of early season with the recurve before work, got a couple does coming between 7 and 10 am so with any luck ill get to see one specifically one with a huge scar on its right side
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Been shooting the Mamba a little, after twisting the factory string to get the brace at 7.5"(same as the Hunter) and changing out the rest to a calves hair one, I got the nock height set. For some reason the bare shafts that tune perfect for the Hunter are weak with the Mamba?? The only thing I could think might cause that would be the Mamba might have a slightly higher draw weight; got out the scale and they were both right at 45# drawn to 28". Not sure what else could cause it, the Hunter should be faster I would think. Anyway, I went and ordered a couple strings made with the 8190, supposed to really good stuff, strong and very stable. I wait till I get them and then tune.
Decided it was time to get my bag target re-covered, had the new one for a while; the arrows started bouncing out more and more. ::) Good thing I had some large pieces of cardboard saved. In the center there was a 21.5x21.5x3" box filled with burlap bags, it was shot so I made another box. The outside had another long piece of cardboard folded to keep it square, also shot. The rest of the stuffing was fine, so once I got the cardboard cut it was pretty straight forward; put the wooden bottom piece in and stapled it up. Came out just like new.
(http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w203/lgsalmon/Mobile%20Uploads/P82A1169_zps11f16052.jpg)
Took a while to get used to aiming at something other than the "black hole" in the center of the old target, but I think in the long run it will help my accuracy having a smaller spot to focus on. Plan on heading out with a couple judo points and doing some stump shooting in the woods; maybe some squirrels or chipmunks will be around, they make good small practice targets. ;)
Have to get some more arrows made up, got some more shafts in. Also need to try out the broadheads, 100 grain Stingers came in; decided I needed a new broahead target, too, arrows were going through the old one messing up the feathers. Went with another Morrell Yellow Jacket since the first one lasted 9 years. ;D
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I have a similar bag target, I just started "repairing" mine with yellow duct tape. Hopefully I can get it to last the winter. One of these days I'm going to get around to building a compressed cardboard target.
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The new cover turned out nice. I may have to do that with one of my old ones. I left it out one winter and now its shaped like a lumpy football. One shot and it tips over. Tried to put a 5 gal. Pail behind it and now I have a leaky bucket. Ooh well. Need some stuffing added to keep the arrows from burying to the fletchings. 8)
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Really glad I put the new cover on, definitely helps force me to use good form and concentrate on the spot; wish I had done it sooner. Find myself grouping better at long distances than close ones, more relaxed and let the shot happen instead of forcing the arrow to the small dot which increases tension(not good). Found the same to be true with my compounds.
Tried some elevated shooting, a little different than with the compound with the longer recurve, still have to bend at the waist. Took a few shots, started out hitting high, after about 20 shots I was getting the hang of it; need to keep practicing but I will feel confident hunting from a treestand with this bow.
(http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w203/lgsalmon/Mobile%20Uploads/P82A1172_zpse3ca87a4.jpg)
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good stuff
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Moved the bow rack on the ATV so it could hold the recurves instead of my compound today.
(http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w203/lgsalmon/Mobile%20Uploads/P82A1184_zpsea4d4329.jpg)
Then I screwed judo points into a couple arrows and headed into the woods for some in the field practice with some stump shooting. Good hunting prep and a lot more fun than shooting at the target(shot at it a bunch from an elevated position for treestand practice earlier); unfortunately didn't see any squirrels or chipmunks where I was.
(http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w203/lgsalmon/Mobile%20Uploads/P82A1175_zps950deb80.jpg)
(http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w203/lgsalmon/Mobile%20Uploads/P82A1176_zps973ad10b.jpg)
(http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w203/lgsalmon/Mobile%20Uploads/P82A1178_zps1bde92ec.jpg)
(http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w203/lgsalmon/Mobile%20Uploads/P82A1179_zps3a796dae.jpg)
(http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w203/lgsalmon/Mobile%20Uploads/P82A1180_zps02bbaa51.jpg)
(http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w203/lgsalmon/Mobile%20Uploads/P82A1181_zps461cf891.jpg)
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Nice!! Just be careful of those narrow trails.....lol
Buddy of mine ho shoots a recurve uses a gun scabbard...sticks out the end a little but lets him navigate better he says. and has a nice pile lining to protect the wood. I used my pack with a built in scabbard on it, then strapped to the back rack. ;)
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you look ready!
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I feel ready, thanks. Starting to get a lot of confidence; not worried about shooting from the treestand, after a few days I have the aiming down, just need to concentrate on the spot, bend at the waist and use good form, as always. Stumping is really helping, too, went out again this afternoon. Pulled the arrow from one stump and was surprised to find the tip bloody? Dug into rotted wood and found a mouse. ;D
(http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w203/lgsalmon/Mobile%20Uploads/P82A1193_zps45081b0b.jpg)
(http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w203/lgsalmon/Mobile%20Uploads/P82A1194_zpsd31ce5c1.jpg)
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Dang your good!! Nice shootin JJ.
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LMAO ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
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HAHAHAHA thats awesome, just sharpened my heads up for friday morning ;)
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Who needs Decon.....or Orkin..... ;D
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Nothing can "hide" from CaptJJ....hunts2long
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Good stuff JJ. 8)
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Nice shot lol. You all ready for Friday ?
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I'm ready now. ;D Lots of little stuff from digging all my gear out to laundry the past couple days.
Been practicing a lot and yesterday I was shooting lousy, hadn't really been improving the last week despite all the shooting. Knew I had the aiming down so I figured it was a form problem, definitely wasn't getting a clean release every time. I happened to watch a good video the night before(http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LceBNHj1FDM (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LceBNHj1FDM)) and tried what I remembered from it and things got better right away. Through all the practice I was concentrating too much on aiming and wasn't maintaining good back tension. The video had a couple pointers that really helped, I was drawing back with my elbow but didn't follow through with it at the release and would sometimes pluck or creep forward a little. Went back to blank bailing and made sure my elbow went back and down when I released; expanding the shoulders at full draw also helped. Also learned that I need to continue to do some blank bail shooting regularly to maintain good form. I finally ordered a good tool called the Formaster, which forces you to use good back tension; been meaning to order one, should have done it sooner.
Realized today that I hadn't shot with gloves and facemask on yet, wasn't worried because it didn't make any difference when I was getting ready for turkey season. Tried some shots this afternoon and found having them on actually made me shoot better; first shot was centered in the bullseye. Found out that with them I took a little more time at full draw to make sure I had a good, solid anchor and was grouping great. A pleasant surprise that I didn't expect. 8)
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good luck ill be out around 915 with the recurve
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(http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w203/lgsalmon/P82A1200_zpsde51b54b.jpg)
(http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w203/lgsalmon/P82A1212_zps276bc548.jpg)
Been out the last four days, didn't see anything from the stand. Seen a few while still hunting; came close Saturday evening had a couple within 40 yds that had no idea I was there. Second one was a big doe but she headed away feeding, no wind and too noisy to stalk, slowly hunted that direction but never saw her.
Been practicing on the stumps on my way out of the woods. Tried one from the stand to make sure I was on:
(http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w203/lgsalmon/P82A1204_zps43269804.jpg)
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Yup you are!!
One will stroll by soon ;D
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That's a beautiful setup there JJ. Good luck!
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That is one class piece of hardware ya got there!
(http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w203/lgsalmon/P82A1200_zpsde51b54b.jpg)
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Made another set of string silencers out of the muskox wool yarn, the last ones were getting pretty small which I think was affecting my tune with less weight on the string. This time I tied the bundles up with a piece of the yarn, last time I just slid them between the 2 strands and the fibers were getting pulled out. I recently read that having the bundle tighter rather than spread out on the string made the silencers work better, and it sure did. What a difference, much quieter, took a while to get used to very little sound at the release.
(http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w203/lgsalmon/P82A1254_zps878af087.jpg)
Now on to the shooting, I started shooting a little better now that I was back in tune, but I still was scattering the arrows more than I like. Seems like my shooting had gone back downhill again, definitely not getting better even with lots of practice. Been working on my form and really concentrating on aiming good, so I thought something else might be happening. Checked out my nocks and the upper one had moved up a little, too much play up and down with the arrow nocked; no wonder I couldn't shoot consistently. Twisted the upper nock to bring it down so the arrow wouldn't move and started shooting like I should be, felt a little stupid for not figuring this out sooner; tough to be a consistent shot without a consistent nocking point. Groups really tightened up, here's one from 20 yds:
(http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w203/lgsalmon/P82A1257_zps8797b6fe.jpg)
I have some new serving material for tying nocks, used what I had last time but wanted something a little thicker. It was also black, same as the center serving, so I got some green Crown serving to stand out a little in case I need to nock an arrow quickly. Should also tighten up a little better than the other stuff so it stays where I want it.
Finally got around to setting up the Formaster training tool that came in last week. The idea is to make sure you are shooting with back tension, when you release the string gets stopped by the cord and without BT your draw arm will get pulled forward. It also helps make sure you bow arm is held steady at the release, you need to use equal tension in both arms to cancel each one out. I must be doing something right because my draw arm stayed right where is should, no creep forward. I'll keep using it to make sure I have it down, it's also good form practice when I can't get out to shoot.
(http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w203/lgsalmon/P82A1261_zps58d7bc23.jpg)
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I have had the same nock problem over the years. I had a old spool of nylon serving that was to large for the nocks on carbon arrows. So switched to that for my tied nock. No more slipping or sliding. The new materials work great for serving, and strings. Not so much for a nock. Had a guy bring me his bow a couple weeks ago....he was sighted in and ready to hunt and then couldn't hit the target. Seems he left the bow in the car all day and then went hunting.....guess the heat, then quick cool down had shrunk the string and the whole serving (6") had slipped up when he drew it back to warm up and check shooting lanes.....reserved and put some rosin on the string first...hope that helps him.
I like the durability and performance of the new string and serving materials. They just require more attention to maintenance. Most hunters just want to grab and go with a bow.....so in some ways the old stuff worked better....JMO...
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The new material I used for the nock didn't work out, it was getting pinched by the nock and compressing(just like the dental floss). Went back to the Brownell #4, made sure to super glued it this time and it's working great; found out it comes in colors so I'll probably get a spool so I can see the nock point better in low light.
Shot the bare shafts the other day, hadn't in a while and they were flying weak, decided I could cut more off, so I started with 1/4" and it got better; took off another 1/4 for a 1/2" total and was happy with them flying slightly weak. Really glad I did this based on the penetration I got on the doe. 8) I think my draw length increased some after getting used to the higher weight, so I needed to stiffen the arrows a little.
Been working on my form lately, really getting the back tension to feel normal, but my aiming suffered, especially at longer distances. Thought about what I was doing and realized I stopped visualizing the path the arrow would take to the target, the trajectory. I was the main point of Kidwell's book Instinctive Archery Insights that I had mentioned earlier in this thread. Once I started doing that it was pretty cool watching the arrows sail right into the center of the target with ease from 20-25 yds. Still need to work on it more, but little by little everything is coming together and I'm getting more consistent; discovering it's a long process.
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Sat a new spot this morning, saw 3 does, 1 fawn and a spike; passed on the first doe and fawn at 15yds, second two came by just after at 20.
(http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w203/lgsalmon/P82A1367_zps2c834a8e.jpg)
(http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w203/lgsalmon/P82A1365_zps1bc0b182.jpg)
Spike at 20yds:
(http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w203/lgsalmon/P82A1378_zpsa096a1ab.jpg)
Got the strings in and set up the Mamba, all but the silencers, made them but didn't install them yet. Arrows I'm using with the Hunter are too weak, not by much but can't cut them any shorter. Thinking of using CX Maxima Hunter 250s, have a dozen uncut that I bought for the compound. The Hunter arrows(Heritage 150s) are 10 GPP and spine is .487. The Maximas are 8 GPP and .417; other option is Heritage 250s, 11 GPP and a bit stiffer at .373. Since I plan on using them mostly for turkeys at short range, thinking the Maximas will be better, can cut them shorter and if I add 50 grain brass inserts the weight will be close to the arrows I'm shooting from the Hunter(keeping trajectory close to the same). Need to do some tuning and cutting when I get a chance, not really in a hurry, but probably should to have a backup bow ready for my Ohio trip(do have the 40# X-200).
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Should be fun to have traditional gear along on the trip....are you taking the compound as a back up? Not that you need it, but nice if you just can't get in the yardage range needed....
Your stand location seems to be panning out well..... ;)
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The compound won't be making the trip, all or nothing with the recurve. Got some arrows fletched up for the Mamba and it will be coming as a backup just in case. Like the way the shorter bow shoots, should be nice from a treestand and especially the blind, more maneuverable; but the longer bow is more forgiving and easier to shoot. Cut the bare shaft Maxima Hunter 250 down to just over 30" and had good straight flight with the 50 grain insert and 100 grain tips; arrow weight is around 420, very close to the arrows for the Hunter. Went with 4" feathers on these arrow and the usual helical, should be plenty enough to steer and they are easier to glue.
(http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w203/lgsalmon/P82A1436_zpsb8487d28.jpg)
Taken 2 bucks from this ground blind with a compound during our rifle season, next one will be with a recurve.
(http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w203/lgsalmon/P82A1421_zps03dd9946.jpg)
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Very nice!! A P&Y buck with traditional will be cool!!
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Those arrows fletched up nice. Good luck on your Ohio trip.
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Every time I look at this thread, I think of the old adage "life is too short to hunt with an ugly gun." Same definitely goes for bows, too ;)
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Been a while, have to agree with Chucker about ugly guns and bows. ;D
Thinking about turkey hunting already. Plan to head back to Nebraska in late March since the blizzard cut my trip short last Spring, only three months to go. 8) Not sure if I will head north to SD or back down to KS to look for a Rio longbeard after missing one last year and tagging out on jakes; will decide at some point, maybe at the last minute.
Been practicing with the Mamba and really starting to like this short bow. Have my target set up indoors and can't shoot very far but the important thing is to work on good form, shooting mostly from my knees like I will be from the blind. Thinking about what broadheads I want to use, knowing their kill zone is small may end up using the same Hammerhead expandables I used with my compounds, don't think the lighter weight of the recurve will be a problem with the 2" cut as turkeys aren't that tough to penetrate.
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That is a nice looking re-curve , Sure going to be nice to practice inside will make a big difference for you :)
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Added another Bear recurve to the collection with some Xmas money I had. Been looking for a '68 Kodiak Magnum, had to wait a while to find one I really good condition. These bows are small at 52" AMO; this one is 38#, a little light but I don't plan on hunting with it, will be fun to shoot.
(http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w203/lgsalmon/Mobile%20Uploads/P82A1737_zpsb339e3f0.jpg)
(http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w203/lgsalmon/Mobile%20Uploads/P82A1738_zps95bd497f.jpg)
(http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w203/lgsalmon/Mobile%20Uploads/P82A1739_zps36139154.jpg)
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Another nice looking bow JJ. great addition to the collectin.
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Nice one....had a green Kodiak for a long time...52# and 52"...Thing was a bear to shoot...no pun intended. :)
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Thanks guys, I like these old bows, and the prices aren't too bad especially compared to the new ones.
Nice one....had a green Kodiak for a long time...52# and 52"...Thing was a bear to shoot...no pun intended. :)
The short bows are definitely harder to shoot, pretty big difference between my 58" and 62" Martins. The longer one is a lot more forgiving, but I'm getting pretty good with the short one now and like it, lighter and easy to carry.
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Nice addition to your collection Jeff....
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Most of the lineup so far; had them all lined up trying to figure out a rack system, so I took a pic.
(http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w203/lgsalmon/100_2411_zpsdf73f1a7.jpg)
Realized I never took any pics of the first one I bought, a new 50# Martin Hunter made in 2007 that I got for a great price. have it in case I go after something BIG one day; want to set it up with some heavier arrows.
(http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w203/lgsalmon/100_2412_zps5a40edc1.jpg)
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Very nice selection , Do you have a favorite ...
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great looking bows, I really want to get a kodiak one day, just seems like the ultimate hunting recurve, the one I have right now is really really long
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Getting a pretty nice collection. Ever thought about making one ?
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Thanks, all.
Favorite right now is the Mamba, second from the right, the Hunter( 2nd from left) being right behind it. The shorter Mamba is faster, lighter and easy to carry; the Hunter is easier to shoot more accurately but I've been shooting the shorter one and getting better with it.
jlaclair, are you talking about the Kodiak at 60" or the K Magnum at 52"? As I posted above, longer bows are much easier to shoot, especially with a longer draw length; long is good for recurves, much more stable.
No desire to make one, just like shooting and collecting them. Maybe a simple selfbow someday out of you or osage, have the one my uncle made.
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Very nice collection you have there. 8)
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Thanks, all.
Favorite right now is the Mamba, second from the right, the Hunter( 2nd from left) being right behind it. The shorter Mamba is faster, lighter and easy to carry; the Hunter is easier to shoot more accurately but I've been shooting the shorter one and getting better with it.
jlaclair, are you talking about the Kodiak at 60" or the K Magnum at 52"? As I posted above, longer bows are much easier to shoot, especially with a longer draw length; long is good for recurves, much more stable.
No desire to make one, just like shooting and collecting them. Maybe a simple selfbow someday out of you or osage, have the one my uncle made.
was thinking about a magnum, I know the longer ones are a bit more forgiving, especially with my wingspan, but just a bit difficult to maneuver through the woods...something maybe 54-58 inches maybe be perfect at enough weight to take large game out to 20 yards would be nice
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I carried the 62" bow last Fall while still hunting and it wasn't bad, a lot less bulky than a compound so it goes through brush pretty easy, just hold it parallel to the ground. I can shoot it from my knees no problem. That being said, now that I am getting the hang of it the 58" bow will probably be the one I use this year, definitely for turkeys to start. The 62" is a bit more forgiving and smoother to draw, though.
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Been shooting the Mamba indoors all winter getting ready for turkeys, really getting used to it now; still shooting the Hunter some, may need it as a backup. Only able to shoot about 8 yds, which is fine as I want them close, but I wish I could get out side once in a while to shoot farther, just been too cold.
Made some changes to my arrows, the bare shafts were starting to show a little stiff on both bows; figure I am getting a cleaner release and not imparting as much paradox to the arrow and need to weaken them a bit. The Mamba arrows were a touch stiff to begin with, so I switched from 50 to 100 grain inserts with 100 grain points; these are shooting good with the Hunter, too. For the Hunter arrows I went from 100 to 125 grain points.
Plan on using the 2" Hammerheads as a turkey broadhead (same as compound), really need to get outside and try them into a broadhead target to see how much they penetrate.
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Well JJ. I hope your happy. I started shooting the longbow I purchased last fall. Now I can't wait to get good enough to hunt with it. Been working on my form a lot and not worrying about placement. Just blank bale shooting. Today was the first time actually aiming. I can only shoot around 9 paces in the upstairs of the barn. The sun keeps it rather warm on a 19*day.
The bow is a Bear Montana @ 50lbs. Arrows are Beman center shots.
I'm surprised at how quiet the bow is. A lil video.
http://youtu.be/0XHCNdkoklI (http://youtu.be/0XHCNdkoklI)
(http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/hickgtx600f4/2014-03/ED1A64FE-FA9D-4D68-9C5D-3067A802448F_zpstesiqeje.jpg) (http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/hickgtx600f4/media/2014-03/ED1A64FE-FA9D-4D68-9C5D-3067A802448F_zpstesiqeje.jpg.html)
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Nice job there young man ; Glad to see another guy taking up the old equipment ;D ;D
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Keeps me humble. That's for sure :)
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Warmer weather coming then you can play farther you doing real good ;D
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Well JJ. I hope your happy. I started shooting the longbow I purchased last fall. Now I can't wait to get good enough to hunt with it. Been working on my form a lot and not worrying about placement. Just blank bale shooting. Today was the first time actually aiming. I can only shoot around 9 paces in the upstairs of the barn. The sun keeps it rather warm on a 19*day.
The bow is a Bear Montana @ 50lbs. Arrows are Beman center shots.
I'm surprised at how quiet the bow is. A lil video.
That's great hick, stick with it and you will see improvement quickly, blank baling was a good idea to start. Group looks good for first time aiming. Been thinking about getting a longbow next to play around with, really prefer recurves though.
Wish I had more room to shoot inside, but it's better than nothing, and turkey season is short range anyway. Got to shoot outside 2 days early last week and it didn't take long to get back into it; distance shooting really helps with grouping.
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As mentioned I got to shoot outside last week, longer distances really help, especially with bare shaft tuning. Looks like I have the right point weight now of around 200 grains: 100 grain point and insert or 145 grain point and 50 grain insert, both shoot nice and straight. I also noticed my nock was a bit high, a couple slight adjustments down (the adjustable tied in nocks work great), and I was nice and flat; then added a drop of super glue to the nocks.
Tried some broadheads and wasn't happy with what I saw from the Hammerhead and Steelhead expandables, penetration wise and I wasn't sure they were opening all the way. Research showed a lot of guys like the Magnus Snuffers for turkeys, a 3 blade fixed head. So I ordered up the 150 grain version for the widest cut possible, almost 1 1/2"; could use 100s but they are only 1 1/16"; will use them with the 50 grain insert.
(http://www.bowhunterssuperstore.com/images/49631-thundervalley-magnus.jpg)
Last thing I wanted to do was get some arrows fletched up with some darker feathers, only had white in 4" and that's too bright for turkeys.
(http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w203/lgsalmon/P82A1838_zpsf611afce.jpg)
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Hooo my JJ those look fancy ; Sounds like you her figured out now ;D ;D
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I'm loving the long bow but it has one major downfall. its LONG !! tried to shoot from the blind and it was way too long to shoot comfortably. had to kneel as that's how i usually shoot with the compound. but i have to cant the bow so much i just dont feel comfortable in the blind. may have to up my camo skills to go after anything from the ground. 8)
Some nice looking sticks there JJ.
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Decided that I will stick with the shorter Mamba for hunting this coming Fall, so that is what I have been shooting. Made a few changes, started shooting cock feather in for better clearance off the shelf. After struggling with consistency I decided to try shooting 3 fingers under instead of split one dayt, really liked it and wondered why I waited so long. Getting a much cleaner release and no more nock pinch, which I noticed much more with this shorter recurve. Another benefit is it brings the arrow higher and closer to the eye to help with aiming; using the same anchor points.
I knew I would have to re-tune after switching, especially the nock point needing to come up. Been shooting like this for a while to get used to it and tuning a little at a time, finally go the nock height about right. I didn't expect the arrow spine to be different, but the bareshafts were showing a weak arrow. I had 150 grain points with 50 grain inserts, dropped to 125, then 100 points and ended up with a nice straight bareshaft. After switching out the points on a few arrows they were really zipping to the target, better tune and 50 grains less weight helps.
Trying to shoot when I can, can't every day, season will be here soon enough.
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I did a lot of research before I started shooting fingers. I shoot three fingers under also. I like how it brings the knock up closer to my eyes. Tried split finger after I tuned the bow for three under. Wow. That almost opened up a can of worms for me. Could not stay consistent with split so back to three under.
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I was still struggling with consistency with this shorter bow but determined to shoot it well and hunt with it. The switch to 3 under helped, then I tried just two fingers under and what a difference. Getting really clean releases and shooting better than ever. I think the third finger was the problem, shorter bow and more pinch; plus I must have been putting to much pressure on the ring finger causing me to miss high a lot. Need to get some 2 under tabs and keep shooting like this, getting used to it quickly. Didn't seem much different than 3 under, bareshafts are nice and straight, so tune is good, actually better.
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Finally have some free time to shoot regularly and get ready for the season, managed to shoot enough to get used to the changes and even improve some over the busy months of Summer. The two under didn't last long but it lead to a couple good changes: a deeper hook, getting past the first joint and onto the pads, and it helped show me that I needed to put more pressure on the top two fingers and only slight pressure on the ring finger. Still waiting on the 3-under tabs that have been back-ordered, should be here soon as they just got them in; there is a shortage of cordovan leather from what I hear.
Have the two 45# bows tuned with the same arrows for once, same arrows just 25 grains less up front than before; will use 50 grain inserts with 125 grain Killer Bee Buzzcuts (Stingers with a solid blade, no vents). I like the CX Maxima Hunters but the shafts aren't cheap, then they changes the spine for 2014; found some arrows fletched with Blazers for about 1/2 the price of shafts, just needed to strip them and fletch with feathers, cut, etc.
One last change is with my nocking points. Was using some nylon serving but it wasn't very durable, switched to BCY #62 which is braided polyester with Spectra; more durable and grips better. Tightens up better, just have to make sure I don't tighten the knot too much or it won't move at all.
Been using the Formaster training aid again and it really helps, both with back tension and keeping the bow arm steady. Should have done it when I first switched to 3-under.
First couple groups from a day where I was on recently:
(http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w203/lgsalmon/Mobile%20Uploads/P82A2314_zps2b25b2ac.jpg)
(http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w203/lgsalmon/Mobile%20Uploads/P82A2315_zps7f8b3f14.jpg)
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Well, I can say the switch to three under was a great idea, really shooting good now. At this point I can put an arrow where I want it out to 25 yds, as long as I do everything right. The main thing now is the mental part, I have the physical part down, need to concentrate on the spot I want to hit and let the shot happen, any outside thoughts and it's usually off the mark.
Been slowly adjusting my tune with the Mamba and I have it pretty good now, taking the time to get used to 3 under helped a lot. Had to raise the nock point more. Then I put new wool silencers on the string as the others were getting a little thinned out, the extra weight made the arrows act stiffer, so I went back to 200 grains up front like I used last Spring for the turkeys. Bow is very quiet and more forgiving, not getting any shelf contact now. Need to work on the Hunter some more, it seems to like a little less weight up front, will try moving the string silencers, otherwise I will use 125 grain points with the 50 grain inserts if I need to use it as a backup.
Ordered some 150 grain Stinger Buzzcuts to use with 50 grain inserts; can also use 100s with 100 grain inserts, but the 150s are a little wider cut.
Here's a really tight group from 15 yds, all touching except the one that I dropped a little low.
(http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w203/lgsalmon/Mobile%20Uploads/P82A2363_zpseb932b18.jpg)
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First kill of the season from about 12 yds, this chipmunk ran and stopped outside his hole, should have kept going. ;D I think chipmunks make for good hunting practice, need to concentrate on a small target and they move a lot. One problem is they like it around rocks and I have to be careful not to break my arrows. trying for squirrels to, but they usually run up a tree.
(http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w203/lgsalmon/Mobile%20Uploads/P82A2369_zps84060643.jpg)
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Nice shot!
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Nice!! Good looking group there.
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Nice shooting
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Must have gotten tired carrying all those nuts hehehe ;D ;D Very nice group game better look out ....
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It's been a while. Getting back into shooting more now that I can get outside. Took a break after last season then started shooting inside about a month ago to work on form. After the break I started at lighter weights and am now back up to the 58" 45# Mamba, seem to shoot that bow the best.
I've been wanting to try a shorter bow so I finally ordered a string for the 1968 Kodiak Magnum at 38# I bought last winter, went with 12 strand Dacron, 48" for a 52" AMO; $9.25 shipped. Stripped off the old rest/strike plate, possibly the original; added new from what I had on hand. With just the string, this bow was really loud. First I added some felt strips in the string grooves, much better but still noisy. I had hoped the 1916 aluminums (cut t0 29") that were a little too stiff for the 40# X-200 would work with this bow, using carbon doesn't seem right to me with older bows. They were bare shafting slightly weak with a 100 grain point, then I added some wool puffs to the string; nice straight flight and now it's pretty quiet. Still need to let the string stretch and play with brace height, now at 8 1/4" with only a couple twists in the string; nock point needs to come down a little. This short bow really shows your form errors, so I find it good for practice, the light weight helps, too; plus it's a fun bow to shoot. Should be enough for deer and turkeys with these 425 grain arrows, not sure I would chance it though.
(http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w203/lgsalmon/Mobile%20Uploads/P82A2827_zps8mkoqwby.jpg)
(http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w203/lgsalmon/Mobile%20Uploads/P82A2832_zpsjmv5tntk.jpg)
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That's a good looking group there. Guess I better get shooting. 8)
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Surprised not to see cedar Arrows.
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Nice shooting ; Them are new arrows or is it just the fletchens
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The arrows were used very little a couple years ago, 2 had new feathers in the pic.
No wood arrows for now, too much work (and tools) needed to make them.
Getting ready for some turkeys and will stick with the Mamba mostly for now on.
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That the shorter one ; I hope you must not have much room in your blind for those longer ones ;
Must be getting itchy for your trip out West ...
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Yes, the shorter one I hunted with all last year, got it for the blind and stayed with it. The Bear is almost 6" shorter when strung and one reason I wanted to try was I was thinking of ordering a new 52" custom; don't think the shorter length is worth the trade-off. Gonna stick with what I have for now, the Mamba hits really hard for 45# and is accurate. I'll use the K Mag for practice.
It was 88 F in Kansas yesterday. They didn't get much snow this winter, should be lots of birds like last year or maybe more.
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That's the tightest group you can get? You need some practice........ ::) ::) ::)
Nice job... :P ;D ;D ;D ;D
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Funny guy. That was one of the better groups, this little bow really lets you know when you screw up.
But when you are on, @ 20 yds aiming for the little knob at the end of the stick.
(http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w203/lgsalmon/Mobile%20Uploads/P82A2840_zpsekypce1b.jpg)
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Very nice shooting for a stick & string with no sites ; Dead turkey with those 2 arrows ;) :)
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After a long search, or wait, I finally found the next 1968 Bear model I have been looking for, a Super Magnum 48; as in 48", very short. These bows are all black, with a phenolic riser that often cracks; haven't found anything in good enough condition and the right weight, something I can shoot. This one is really clean, hardly used and 45#, might have to try it for turkeys. Need to wait for delivery then I'll get some pics up.
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8) Be looking forward to see it ; How many is that you going to make have ....
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48" :o dang that's short. Can't wait to see it. Should work great from the blind. Especially all blacked out.
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Have the bow but pics will have to wait till I get back. It's in great shape for 47 years old and very short. Bear made the black ones from '66-'69, made them for hunting. String that came with it is too short, brace is almost 10". ::) Will order one so it is there after my trip.
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Finally have some time to catch up on this thread. Here's the '68 Super Magnum 48, really short for sure at 48" AMO.
(http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w203/lgsalmon/Mobile%20Uploads/P82A3488_zps5zigt2pj.jpg)
Had a string made for it last Spring, it would not straighten out in the lower string groove like they are supposed, too. The string maker tried to make one that would work but couldn't and refunded my money; they must stretch the string while making it and while that might work for compound strings with newer material, I don't think it works with Dacron which has more stretch. Need to have the other guy that made most of my strings make one up.
I have been shooting the '68 Kodiak Magnum some, not as short at 52", really need good form with the short bows so they are good for practice.
(http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w203/lgsalmon/Mobile%20Uploads/P82A3489_zpsp7qivygr.jpg)
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Too warm to hunt, freezer is full and season is over, so today I decided to set up the Super Mag with the string that wasn't laying flat in the groove at the bottom. It didn't seem like it would be too much of a problem and doesn't hurt to try since I had it on the bow. Stripped off the old rest on the shelf and added a new piece of rug with a small piece of leather to act as a rest underneath where the arrow contacts, good idea with flat shelf (the Martins I have are radiused). Left the old calves hair strike plate for now, still in good shape.
These old Bears have a sort of rattle sound at the limb tips and are loud with nothing added, started with calves hair strips in the string grooves. Then added wool puffs which really helped; now there is just a slight "boing" sound at the shot.
For arrows I figured the Heritage 150s that I used with the 45# Hunter as first would tune pretty good with this bow at 45# also. Thought more tip weight would be needed, but this little bow is pretty powerful and the bare shafts were flying nice and straight with 125 grain points. While not as fast as the Martins, this bow casts a nice arrow and hits hard. As mentioned before, it is very finicky being so short but does surprisingly well when I do my part. Couldn't put the bow down, will shoot a bunch this week, forecast looks good. Like it so far, with practice I think it will be nice to hunt with.
Here it is next to the already pretty short Mamba.
(http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w203/lgsalmon/P82A3815_zpscznzoy1s.jpg)
And the K Mag.
(http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w203/lgsalmon/P82A3818_zps5qushvdp.jpg)
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Here's my old bow, haven't shot it in over 25 years. I found out(saw a similar one up for auction) that this one was made in Danbury, CT in the 60s by Clad Owens owner of the United States Archery Co; 62", 43#@28". Unfortunately it has a slightly twisted limb, probably can be fixed but for now it is a wall hanger, the wood is beautiful.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/w203/lgsalmon/100_1530.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/w203/lgsalmon/100_1531.jpg)
Need to take some pics of the new ones.
Was trying tom figure out where to put this bow in my new place, then decided to try twisting the limbs back to where they need to be by hand, have read that this sometimes works. Much to my surprise after a few tries I had kit straight in about 5 minutes, that was last week and it hasn't moved, sting goes right into the grooves on letdown now. Sometimes you get lucky.
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Wood looks beautiful.
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Man you sure got some very nice looking recurves..
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Thanks. I like the look of wooden bows. The one I fixed is solid bubinga, the '68 K Mag is shedua and the Mamba that I hunt with is shedua between bubinga.
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After hunting with the same recurve since 2014, decided it was time for a change, and wanted something new for turkeys and the next slam. Have several old Bears, last year added a 1962 K-Mag, 44# with Bolivian rosewood riser, great shape and shoots nice for 52". But the old bows are too nice to carry in the woods, the way I hunt dings are gonna happen. Was considering a Border "super" recuvre, they are made in Scotland and I am Scottish; these bows increase in weight early in the draw then decrease to almost nothing. Plus they are really fast, but I went a different direction.
Longbows are smooth, but not as fast as recurves usually, now they make hybrid longbows that are fast, and the shorter ones are faster... and I like short bows. Was checking out the Omega Longbows website, know the bowyer and he has a great reputation for building moderately priced working man's bows, not too fancy. The short hybrid Native he redesigned looked really nice especially the one he had one the In-stock page was a little fancier, green and black riser (Green Hornet Dymalux) with double carbon limbs, but just a little lighter than I wanted at 40#. Sent he an email asking if he could make one at 45#, he explained that the carbon is tough to get the weight right, so he was sticking with glass only for now. He then said the bow is really 41# and is faster than a longer 45# carbon bow he made and with the carbon (lighter) limbs it wouldn't be much slower than a 45# Native with glass limbs.
So I took a chance and ordered it, came in this morning... and I am ready to hunt with it. Strung it up and tried the arrows I use with my 45# Mamba, and after playing with the nock height, settling in at 5/8" above, the bare shaft was hitting nice and straight with a good release. Been shooting all day and really like it, a little less draw weight and hits just as hard... plus it seems more accurate, even out to 30yds. At first I thought the grip was too wide but decided to just shoot it and see; turns out it fits my hand really good, and the width adds mass on a short riser. Hope this holds up after the honeymoon is over, didn't think I would even hunt with it this Fall but no reason not to.
(https://i.postimg.cc/6p08dyZV/20190923_120623.jpg)
Still has nice curves when unstrung:
(https://i.postimg.cc/C1W5FDy0/20190923_120947.jpg)
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The more I shoot this bow the more I like it, only problem was it was a little loud even with big wool puffs. Sounded like it was coming form the limbs, peeled a pair of limbsavers off an old compound and used silicone to attach them just above the fadeouts... really helped, the difference was really noticeable.
Shooting this bow much better than the recurve at further distances. One big help is the 4 pounds less of draw weight, can hold at anchor better. Also like the grip, fits the hand nicely. And the bow is smooth drawing with long limbs and very stable after the shot, riser has some weight to it for such a small bow, maintly from the Dymalux which is denser than most woods.
(https://i.postimg.cc/NfGQVNqv/20190923_150144.jpg)
(https://i.postimg.cc/yxjsxRRG/20190923-150136.jpg)
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Nice bow Jeff.. Good luck with it..
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Thanks Dom, I'll be out with it tomorrow. First 3 shots with a broadhead were right there from 10, 15 and 20 yds, and that was the first day before I even had it set up.
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That looks absolutely impressive.
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Thanks, it shoots as good as it looks... as long as I do my part.
Got my first Robin Hood with it last week at 20 yds.
(https://i.postimg.cc/cCxQPCF4/20191101-134955-2.jpg)
Here's a good group from 25 yds, trying out my new bag target.
(https://i.postimg.cc/P5p1gBQZ/20191028-172826.jpg)
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I got lucky and was able to get another double carbon Omega Native, this one is a little longer @ 60" and slightly heavier @ 45#. new design is supposed to be faster, has two maple laminations instead of one and the limbs are a lot narrower. Not sure any more of these will be made, the form warped and the builder isn't sure he will make another. He made this one for a show that was cancelled and I inquired at the right time to buy it, wanted him to build me one at that weight.
(https://i.postimg.cc/YSmbzyX1/20200725-193307-2.jpg)
(https://i.postimg.cc/Lsdz24T1/20200725-193445.jpg)
(https://i.postimg.cc/hGP7SJmh/20200725-193406-2.jpg)
(https://i.postimg.cc/43bhG6yD/20200725_193332_(2).jpg)
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Gorgeous piece! Congrats!
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Looks great Jeff..
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Beautiful craftsmanship on those! Cool share, thanks
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Thanks all really like the bow, now need to set it up and start shooting it. But first I need to continue rehabbing my right (draw) shoulder, almost there and making good progress finally. It has been bothering me since February with an impingement and a little bursitis, luckily no rotator cuff tears. Did a lot of research and found the problem happens when certain muscles get overused and other ones get weaker... which causes the shoulder to come out of alignment and tendons get pinched. Doing several stretches and working out the right muscles and the improvement has been remarkable, sleeping without pain, too. Also taking a special supplement called Capraflex that helps joints heal which has definitely helped. I can shoot the lighter 41# pound bow without any pain.
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Good deal! I had that happen with my hip after I broke my back and same thing, got all muscles equal again and fine, nice work!
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Jeezz Jeff hope it feels better soon..
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Shoulder is doing better just in time, have been shooting enough to be able to hunt, trying not to overdo it. Haven't lost any strength so I decided to try out the new, heavier bow @45#, only 4-5 lbs more. Thought I might need a stiffer arrow... but this one seems to like the same arrow as the other one and the 45# Mamba recurve I shot for years. Still need to tune some more, and for some reason the arrows seem slightly stiff at times, very odd going up in draw weight? And they seem to hit harder/faster? Thinking a slight increase in brace height should fix it, at the lowest end of the range now. Will experiment with more pint weight, too; but would rather keep the arrow the same to keep things simple.
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Good deal
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Glad your feeling better Jeff..
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Thanks.
So this new bow was pretty noisy with nothing on the string, added a couple cat whiskers and it quieted right down. Had also ordered a set of Limbsavers but don't think it needs them. I am sold on the rubber whiskers after using them last Spring, they hold up great and most importantly don't grab briars and burdocks, etc. The wool puffs looks and work great but don't last and get full of sticky seeds fast, the whiskers are heavier but can slide them further out the bowstring if needed to tune by the added weight (they are about 12" form the limb tips now. They don't hold water either.
I noticed the arrow was not as close to center as the lighter bow, which would make the arrow act stiffer. So I swapped out the velcro on the sight window for some thinner calves hair and it seems to be just enough change in centershot... need to shoot outside and further out to make sure, only get about 8 yds in the house. Can still go up in brace height, real test will be with a broadhead.
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Glad the shoulder is better. Ohio this year?
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Better but still not 100%, at least I can shoot daily. Yes, plan to be on OH for early November as usual, just need to get the boat out of the water and winterized.
(https://i.postimg.cc/V6z95BYz/20201015-160351.jpg)
So the thinner strike plate made the difference and I have both bows tuned for the same 460 grain arrows, 2 fletched and 1 bare shaft at 15 yds above with the new charcoal bow. New bow has 2 long whickers and is quiet; took the old Limbsavers off the green bow and shot it, definitely too noisy.... added the new smaller, recurve Limbsavers and it was back to quiet. These ones are much lower profile and smaller overall, work just as good. Will probably stick with the lighter green bow in the woods for now but nice to be able to choose either one.
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Draw arm shoulder is now back to normal, except for a little popping/cracking, after lots of rehab and stretching last winter and spring. Made some changes to how I shoot that also help: opened my stance and went to a J draw.... which gets me to full draw using the back muscles and better alignment overall.
So I have been shooting the heavier bow I got last summer, and plan to hunt with it this fall. Can switch back and forth between the 2 but the heavier bow makes for a cleaner release and hits a little harder with the same arrow. Really curious what the speed difference is between the 41 and 45# bows, sometimes the lighter one seems just as fast. Likely due to the lighter limbs with a single maple lam between the carbon on the 41, 45 has 2 maple lams. May get a chronograph to play with, can get a good one for a little over $100.
Good 20 yard group with the new Native:
(https://i.postimg.cc/CLJv64Lr/20210814_104716.jpg)
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Tis the season Pal!
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Feeling a bit like Fall today, starting to see some color in the leaves...early bear on 9/18.
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I woke up to 42 degrees yesterday and yes all the maples are going red
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So I've been playing around with different string silencers, both bows have the recurve version Limbsavers on them and they definitely make a difference. The wool puffs look cool and quiet things well, but aren't durable and get smaller fast, especially with sticky seeds, etc., and they hold water. Had the green bow pretty quiet with a single rubber cat whisker, 2 was too much weight and arrow acted stiff.
I had tried Bowjax before, worked good on one recurve but not as well with the Mamba I hunted with for several years. They are lighter and tried a pair on the green bow since I was setting up a new string. Nice thing I have found with these hybrids is they are really easy to fine tune bare shaft by moving the weight up and down the string. The lighter green bow needs the Bowjax pretty far out on the string, the heavier charcoal bow tunes with them closer to the center. Same bow with the heavier whiskers likes them closer to the tips. From what I can tell both types of silencers work well, plus very durable and water resistant.
(https://i.postimg.cc/vmJZ8vPG/20210829-194831.jpg)
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Rewarding myself after a busy summer with another custom made bow from the same bowyer Kegan at Omega Longbows. This one is more of a true longbow at 66", the Royal Huntsman, but still has reflex/deflex for better speed. Going with Buckskin Dymalux for the riser, it's tan, brown and black, like the ASAT camo I like; with brown fiberglass on the limbs. Low to mid 40s for draw weight. He was behind and just started taking orders again, my build is to start 12/13, he's already into January after 2 days.
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Sounds awesome Jeff, Congrats! I looked into them last year when you shared your last bow. I may grab one if I have time to even use it lol! I know how that is. I sent out a memo in early June saying I can’t look and measure or give bids On new jobs until April of next year. That’s still looking to close for comfort.
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I'm getting to the point where my time is valuable and work not so much. Luckily, business has been great, don't even answer the phone anymore and as full as I want to be, tough to turn down money.... time to raise the rates.
Bowyer went up $100 on each bow and I think he should go higher with the demand, still less expensive than a new Bear or Howatt.
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Nice Jeff.. Do it know while you can.... ;)
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Came across a deal too good to pass up on a barely used Royal Huntsman, just built in August. Same charcoal Dymalux as the new Native but it is much darker, black fiberglass limbs with 2 lams of hickory which are thicker than the maple lams on the others. Ideal draw weight 45#@28", 64" AMO so a little longer but not much heavier if at all.
(https://i.postimg.cc/J4M1Wjy6/20211007-162042-2.jpg)
Hoped it would tune with the same arrows but so far they were weak, bare shaft flew straight when I dropped 50 grains from the field point, so 150 grains total up front. This was with the lighter Bowjax on the string, will try the heavier rubber whiskers and may get the heavier points to work.
(https://i.postimg.cc/L4zH7xsg/20211007-161732.jpg)
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Nice looking Bow!
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Nice find !
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It's definitely a keeper, and a couple hundred off the price. Pulled the Bowjax and tied a couple 2" cat whiskers on... and voila, tuning with the same arrows with 200 grains in front like the 2 Natives after adjusting the whiskers, makes things easy with 1 arrow. I may have to hunt with this bow, first impressions are that it is more forgiving, as it should being longer and less deflex. Finding it hard to put this thing down. Did I mention it's pretty fast, too.
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That’s great!
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That awesome
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Now that I have this thing fine tuned it is a blast to shoot and I can drop them right in there out to 30 yards if I do my part. The bare shaft was still a little stiff, nock right and left of fletched, needs more energy. So I kept sliding the cat whiskers further out the string and eventually hit the sweet spot, pretty close to where they are on the new Native.
(https://i.postimg.cc/hvzjNqhF/20211015-161327.jpg)
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You need a new target brother .. 8)
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Plenty of life in that one, just getting broken in. You should see the old target in my house, big hole in the middle but works for close range.
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Looking forward to seeing the new bow placed next to a bruiser in a pic. 8)
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So the new bow arrived and I have it all set up and it shoots great as expected. This is the first bow that I have completely custom ordered and I changed things a little bit from the original plan. Since I found the 64" Royal Huntsman at a great price, and the bowyer now offering a shorter version I went with 62" instead of 66". Also, this one is much lighter, the composite wood is Spectraply which is much less dense than the Dyamlux the 3 others were made with. I figured shorter and lighter is good for hunting, especially holding the bow up waiting for a shot. Draw weight came in at 44# @ 28" and I was able to tune with the same arrows as the other bows. One thing is this bow is quieter than the rest without any Limbsavers added; have them and will see how much more they help, just small cat whiskers now.
(https://i.postimg.cc/BnPB3BDM/20220114-123958-2.jpg)
Wanted the match the ASAT camo I like and think it comes pretty close, Buckskin Spectraply with brown fiberglass:
(https://i.postimg.cc/cHqb6t6W/20220114-123636.jpg)
Now have 4 hybrid longbows and like shooting them all, recurves are collecting dust. The new bow weighed in at 1.66 lbs, 58 and 60" Natives are 1.86-1.88 and 64" is 2.22.
(https://i.postimg.cc/cJqMLtBZ/20220114-131537.jpg)
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Very nice.. Good luck with it.👍👍
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Very very nice addition Jeff looking forward to how she going to shoot
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That’s a gorgeous bow Jeff! Good luck with it.
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Real nice looking bow love the colors good luck!! Hopefully that one takes down the big 10!!
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You Going to give her some play time
with the turkeys this spring.
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Thanks all. This bow seems more forgiving and easier to shoot consistently than the shorter Natives. Pretty sure a lot of it is design, they are a more radical reflex/deflex; which helps speed but don't think I am giving much up, if any.
Been trying to shoot outdoors more this winter, even though it has been colder. Inside can only shoot about 7 yards, good to prep for turkeys but longer distances help with maintaining form.
Added the Limbsavers and this bow is definitely much quieter than the others, too. I played with brace height more and will do some experimenting with the 60" Native before turkey season.
(https://i.postimg.cc/pLWpBPWz/20220125-154735.jpg)
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Looks like you getting her dialed in pretty good
If I tried it probably make you laugh Jeff ....
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Well Chuck, everyone would have laughed at me when I started, just checked, began this thread 10 years ago when I picked up a recurve again... and still learning.
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Now that I am switching bows a lot, I can see the 60" Native isn't as tuned as I thought... switch to it and start hitting left. Wasn't a problem when I just shot that bow, must have compensated to the right. Also, noticed a left kick of the nock end of the arrow in flight at longer ranges with a sloppy release, pulling through the shot worked best.
Looked at the spec sheet from the bowyer, calls for brace height from 8.75 to 9.5", I have been going with the lowest number. So, with the arrow acting a little stiff, I twisted the string to raise BH to 9", and saw the difference right away, also could hear it was quieter. Then tried a bareshaft and much more consistent results, before had to do everything perfect. So looks like I was right on the edge of getting the spine right for the best flight, now should be more in the middle and more forgiving. Maybe my thoughts on bow design and the more radical R/D isn't the difference?
I still will play with BH some more, really the best way to fine tune at the end, only so many adjustments when shooting off the shelf with a one piece bow. Right now I am much more consistent at turkey ranges, was a little discouraged with it but happy now because this bow will be good for the blind, dark colored and short enough. The new one will be good for out of the blind and will likely be number 1 next Fall.
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Seem to have all the bows tuned now, fine tuning with brace height helps get them all hitting in the middle when I switch bows.
Went back and retuned the green Native for turkey season, had been playing around with silencers before last fall and then put it down and hunted with the new Native. The green one was really loud with a new string and BowJax, played around with nock height and brace with out much luck and tune was still off with a bare shaft. Put the old string back on, has a single cat whisker and nice and quiet, bare shaft straight. Put new string back on, matched nock and brace height, then added 2 small whiskers and it is much better; old string will be good for backup.
I used to think shooting one bow was best for accuracy, best to get used to the one bow. But now finding that shooting them all has me shooting better than ever, really focusing on using the same form with each bow and executing. Shooting outdoors all winter is really helping as well, the 7 yards indoors just gets too routine.
Lastly, I am working through the usual shoulder isssues that arise when I shoot more, but this time I have been keeping up with the rotator cuff exercises. And more importantly, I am back to the J draw that I started last summer and really noticed a difference, especially with back tension which is key to good shooting, Hunting and not shooting as much I forgot about the new draw until I read back in this thread. Then I just read a great article about shoulder pain and archery that reinforces what I figured out... and then explained why I was getting some impingement. The result is less pain and better shooting. Need to watch the video that was in the article next.
https://www.outdoorlife.com/opinion/archery-shoulder-injury/?amp (https://www.outdoorlife.com/opinion/archery-shoulder-injury/?amp)
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I watched the video and finally think I have back tension figured out, all about the elbow going down and back after release, combined with using the back muscles to draw. Wish I had seen this video sooned but it just came out. Shooting is a lot more fun when consistent and arrows are hitting straight and hard every shot.
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What a difference technique makes, both with acccuracy and pain. Shooting better than ever and can keep shooting all day if I want, using back intead of shoukder muscles drawing and releasing. As mentioned no pain in the shouders, draw(right) arm was getting bad; muscle soreness is there from a lot of shooting but improving as the new muscles get developed; elbow tendinitis much better, too. Feel like I have moved up a level after years of struggling to stay consistent, advanced intermediate?
Wasn't sure about bows for turkey, had been shooting the lighter green bow much better than the others. Then suddenly after learning the new technique and getting stronger the 45# charcoal Native is drilling the center of the target, had been hitting left. I replaced to longer floppy whiskers with the 1 3/4" ones that I like, definitely sounds quieter. Confirmed with a decibel meter app I am trying on my phone.
Keeping up with the rotator cuff execises and stretching; need to watch over shooting, hard to stop when shooting good. Another nice day today but after 50 shots I am done, heading out into the woods to see if I can find a shed, 4 deer came out across the road when I was shooting last night before dark.