Getting the Bow Tuned

[upstatehunter]

One of the reasons I've never owned a Mathews.....(only one I haven't I think, except the new companies) Check the cam lean and idler lean at full draw....may be fine at rest, but lean at full draw.  Sounds like the arrow problem might have been a batch of shafts marked wrong? Or you may have a different material string than the tech.....some materials don't stretch at all so more of the bows energy is put to the arrow, or a different release...as some will oscillate the string more than others........I can shoot a 55/70 at 30" with 100 grain tips, but they are on the stiff side when cut to 29".....Have no problems with Gold tips at any length, but C Express are a bunch stiffer....My new CE's are at 29" and Had to add a 10 grain washer to my tips.....They shoot well.  I will say this.... I have owned, and helped others tune some bows that no matter what was done(including a different release) they would not shoot a field tip and broadhead at same point of impact.....They shot bullet holes in paper, would shoot bare shafts to 30 yards, but throw a set of wings on the front of that arrow and all bets were off....There are times in life that it is, what it is....It's up to us to do what your doing, make it the best it can be.....

[Inwellb4light]

If your point of impact differences are vertical between you bare shafts and fletched shafts its not a deal with your rest or sight, and in this case i do not believe it is a problem of spine either. And if it was cam lean your POI's misses would be left/right

For a high bare shaft hit I would start by putting one full twist in your buss cable to accelerate the cam rotation (if hit was low untwist once to retard rotation),  then shooting the bare shafts again and repeating the process until your POI meets that of your broadheads. Shouldnt take more than 2 or 3 twists.  For left right misses you would need to twist/untwist the legs of your yolk

[stka]

I think it's pretty well tuned, with the exception of the rest being super tight to the riser. And the truth is that doesn't bother me real bad, just wish I knew what it was. I'll bring it back to the shop and have the cam and wheel lean checked on the auto draw rig.

The CE Mayhems weren't cheap, but they fit the bill for what I was looking for. I'm now shooting ~430 grains and it has some force behind it. I shot one arrow into the 3D target and almost knocked it over, and that was from 45* above it  .

[Inwellb4light]

Another thought that you can try without needing a press.....

Try loosening your BOTTOM limb bolt a 1/8th of a turn at a time to see if your POI with your bare shafts comes down a little.

Bottom limb may be working a little harder than the top limb causing your high bareshaft hit

[TallywackahME]

to add to that ide measure it firs and see how close your tiller is....

i put my broad heads on tonight to see what i needed to do before next sat and i had to make zero adjustments. just checked everything first w/ a bow square, tape measure center shot tool and a level level thats made for mounting scopes. went out made sure i was grouping w/ field tips, screwed in my plain old junk original muzzy fixed blades and impact is dead nuts. actually its about an inch high but thats pretty common w/ fixed blade broadheads. i aint cangin nothing. prob drop my bow out of my stand first morning though

[stka]

I shot broadheads with straight vanes today and they were all over. Screwed onto the same shafts with helicals and they tighten right back up. Looks like I'm back to start with the tuning. Wrecking my target with the damn BH tuning.

[TallywackahME]

for some reason your arrows arent stabilizing sounds like. how big of a broadhead are your using. do you have any way to shoot it through a piece of paper at about 5 feet?

[stka]

for some reason your arrows arent stabilizing sounds like. how big of a broadhead are your using. do you have any way to shoot it through a piece of paper at about 5 feet?

Yea I have a paper rig and had it paper tuned before I started messing with broadheads. I'm going to start from scratch when I have enough time. Starting to wonder if I need more weight forward. I'm shooting a 9.8gpi shaft 27.5" long with a 100gr head, total weight of 430gr.

[TallywackahME]

what length vanes?

[stka]

3x3" fusions. Shafts are CE Mayhems 0.334 spine.

[TallywackahME]

i wouldnt say your front of center is bad. should be about 11% w/ what you have. right where you wanna be for broadheads. 8-12% for field tips and 10-14% for broadheads. i think you are in the meat w/ your arrow set up.

[stka]

I was seeing fishtailing today, so something has to be out of whack. My rest is only 0.58" from the inside of my riser, and that has to be wrong. I'm going to start by moving out to the same distance as the string and then start the whole tuning process over.

Does anyone know how to make sure the limbs are evenly loaded. Can I assume that the same gap on both is even or is there a good way to check?

[TallywackahME]

thats called tiller.measure from your bowsting to the long point of your limb.both upper and lower. they should measure the same distance.

[stka]

It's a parallel limb Z7, not sure how I could do that?

Would the knocking point being a touch high (bare shaft hitting 2" high but straight at 25yds) cause this much of an issue? Seems like it should be more to it. I also have some pinching from my D-loop.

[stka]

Upstatehunter, where do you think I should start looking here? If you had the time I would ask to come up and have you help me in person.