3" Fusions came in yesterday, they are much stiffer than the old vanes I have. I can see how they could do the same work with a little less surface area. Hope to start getting some fletched up and busting the bow out.

3" Fusions came in yesterday, they are much stiffer than the old vanes I have. I can see how they could do the same work with a little less surface area. Hope to start getting some fletched up and busting the bow out.

thats what is on my old arrows, they fly well, plenty durable too

just got most of my accessories in the mail for the new compound!

Got my new arrows today. Beman ICS Hunter with the blazer vanes. Shot for the first time since November and I'm rusty. Before I quit I threw a 2 Blade Magnus Stinger on and was surprised that it supported it. Once I've been shooting for a while I'll test it at 30 and 40 yards. If it doesn't work I'll stay with Rage till I refletch.

Started fletching the 3" Fusions. Does anyone have a method for keeping the glue from beading? Typically I'd use a Q-tip to smooth it over, but that's wrinkling the bases of these. I'll be trying the NVP when I run out of the fletch-tit platinum.

Fletch tite platinum sucks. Cant even hold itself together. I use Goat Tuff on all mine.

These Fusions are making me feel like I have no idea what I'm doing. FYI if you use an old Blitzenburger jig the clamp has to be right down to the very base of the vane on the fusions or it won't give even pressure and you'll get lifting.

Yes, you need the clamp close to the base on the Fusions to get them to lay flat, same with the Jo-Jan I use; I always check the fletching first for fit, then glue.

I guess the beads you are referring to is the excess glue that squeezes out; you can minimize it by apply just enough glue, then wipe off the excess with a piece of folded paper towel. I just refletched one arrow with white Fusions and they didn't wrinkle much, less glue helps and the wrinkles flatten when the glue dries.

And I'm using Fletch-tite Platinum, never lost a fletching with it, it was all I could find locally and didn't want to wait. Prep is the key: sand lightly then clean with 90% alcohol. I like how easy the arrow cleans up for replacement fletchings, just scrape it off with a dull knife. Just did a bunch of aluminums with feathers and the are holding on fine.

I think the clamping issue is because of the taper at the base, never had that happen before. I use a good utility knife blade to remove the old vanes and it works real well without damaging the shaft if you hold it at a shallow angle. I have 100% propanol I get by the gallon, if you're ever down this way and want a gallon let me know, it works great and has no water in it. We use it for cleaning ultra high vacuum components at work. I use it once in an ultrasonic cleaner and then it's waste even though it's still more pure than anything you can buy. Have pure acetone too, but that stuff eats almost everything.

Im going to use the tape instead of glue when I put my feathers on my wood shafts... was reading about it and everyone was saying it was superior to glue

Im going to use the tape instead of glue when I put my feathers on my wood shafts... was reading about it and everyone was saying it was superior to glue

From what I read on AT, the tape tends to move. If you use it they recommend still dabbing glue on each end, at that point I would just glue them.

I'll stick with glue over the tape, it works.

I'm fletching up some more aluminums with feathers this morning, they really go on easy, bury the feather in the clamp and it lays flat. You can also put A LOT of helical on them and they just wrap around the arrow, just need to keep the clamp and feathers the same; ie right wing feathers with right helical clamp. I might try a couple carbons with feathers to try with the compunds, only thing I don't like about them is they aren't so good in the rain.

I'll stick with glue over the tape, it works.

I'm fletching up some more aluminums with feathers this morning, they really go on easy, bury the feather in the clamp and it lays flat. You can also put A LOT of helical on them and they just wrap around the arrow, just need to keep the clamp and feathers the same; ie right wing feathers with right helical clamp. I might try a couple carbons with feathers to try with the compunds, only thing I don't like about them is they aren't so good in the rain.

the thing I like about the tape is you can do a full arrow in a minute and there is no drying, supposed to be extremely strong hold, planned on doing a right helical on them 4" feathers, German Spruce blanks, using snuffer heads with woody weights to get more FOC and hit super hard

I'm not in that much of a hurry making arrows.

For those heavy arrows I think you are going to want at least 5" feathers with broadheads, not 4". How do you know the arrows are going to spine properly with those broadheads? Usually you tune with field points then match with broadheads.

I'm not in that much of a hurry making arrows.

For those heavy arrows I think you are going to want at least 5" feathers with broadheads, not 4". How do you know the arrows are going to spine properly with those broadheads? Usually you tune with field points then match with broadheads.

I have been doing a lot of research and talking to the guys on archery talk and tradarchery, hopefully the 4's will be enough, but I can always refletch